Video about Chrysanthemum. How to grow chrysanthemum correctly - good advice. When and how to transplant chrysanthemums, how chrysanthemums multiply, wintering of chrysanthemums. Types and varieties of chrysanthemums.
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The flowering perennial plant marticaria (Matricaria), which is also called chamomile, is a representative of the Asteraceae family. This genus unites about 20 species. The most popular among them is pharmacy chamomile, which is widely used for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Under natural conditions, this plant can be found in South Africa, Eurasia and America, while it was also introduced to Australia. Chamomiles are also called plants of other genera, similar to marticaria, belonging to the Astrov family, for example: pupavka, gerbera, doronicum, feverfew, daisy and aster. The fact is that all these plants form inflorescences-baskets during flowering. For such a plant, the scientific name was formed from the Latin word, which means "uterus", this is due to the fact that chamomile has long been used to treat gynecological diseases. The Russian name was borrowed from the Polish language, while it is considered to be derived from the word romana translated as "Roman", this is due to the fact that in the 16th century marticaria was called the "Roman color".
Mulberry is suitable for well-lit places, protected from cold stagnation. It would be ideal to set aside sandy loam, sandy or loose loamy soils for planting. Young seedlings are planted either in early autumn (September - early October) or in April. The planting hole is dug 80x80x60 cm in size. It is sprinkled with fertile soil, compost or humus in combination with complex fertilizers. Saplings are planted in the center, spreading the roots, then sprinkled with earth and tamped. Finish planting with abundant watering (one bucket) and mulching.
Abundant watering is required during the period of active growth, especially during bud break. It is also important to feed the plant. For example, fermented slurry or bird droppings mixed with water in a ratio of 1: 5 and 1:10. Top dressing stops from the beginning of July and the plant is now watered only in case of severe drought.
Mulberries are cut, planted with seeds, separated from the mother tree. Reproduction of decorative varieties is carried out by grafting on seedlings.
If you decide to propagate by seeds, then it is advisable to use the seeds of the current year. Peel them from the pulp and can be stored indoors at room temperature until planting. The seeds are sown in February, but before that they are soaked in a special solution - a growth biostimulator for a couple of hours. After that, they are slightly dried and sown in a nutritious soil, then sprinkled with soil by 1 cm.The temperature in the room should be from 20 to 22 ° C. Seeds, as a rule, give strong and friendly shoots. After germination, the seedlings are placed in another place - more illuminated and with a temperature of 16–20 ° C. In April, they are planted in a school garden bed, filled with fertilizers in the fall. During planting, there should be 5-6 meters between the plants.
Typically, mulberry formative pruning is not required, this is only necessary if it is necessary to give the crown a cupped shape. The tops of the main and other shoots are cut to restrain the growth of the tree. However, for cold regions this happens by itself by freezing the upper shoots and the appearance of root shoots, due to which a coppice bush is formed.
The watering regime should be moderate, in which the root system will not rot from excess moisture. This despite the fact that chrysanthemum is quite hygrophilous. The exception is the dry period (during which water more abundantly so that the stems do not become rusty and the flowers do not lose their decorative effect) and the period before flowering. It is better to take water standing or rainwater.
Once a week, "feed" the flowers with mullein infusion (1:10), and before budding - with potash and phosphorus fertilizers for lush flowering, sometimes nitrogen fertilizers to build up green mass. Discard top dressing before flowering. During dressing, make sure that the fertilizer solution does not get on the leaves and cause burns. Water only at the root. For the development of young chrysanthemums, it is extremely important to ensure a balanced diet in the first two months, as the green mass is growing very actively. Burnt mullein and chicken droppings are very effective. The main rule is that it is better not to feed the plant than to burn it.
Pour a couple of buckets of mullein or a bucket of chicken droppings into a large container, fill it with water, stir and let it infuse for three days - during this time the valuable highly concentrated fertilizer will be ready. Prepare a solution: add 10 liters of water to 1 liter of concentrated infusion. Apply 1 liter of solution under each plant only at the root and always on wet soil.
Further care for the chrysanthemum does not require much effort - regular watering, loosening, weeding, spraying from parasites.
Despite the fact that chrysanthemums tolerate the cold quite well, at the end of October, protect the flower bed from frost by placing a frame with plastic wrap on it - and you will admire the flowering of April cuttings for another month. You will remove the frame at the end of November, transplant the bushes into pots, and they will bloom on a warm, bright veranda even in January.
If you have recently been given a potted chrysanthemum, how to keep it until spring and planting in the garden, you can find out from the answer to the question "How to keep chrysanthemums until spring?"
Disease and pest control
Water-loving chrysanthemum, abundant watering, especially in the absence of rain, helps prevent the defeat of aphids and mites that cannot tolerate moisture.
Many harmful microorganisms and pathogens live in the soil, so after every rain, treat the plants with drugs for diseases (for example, Quadris or Previkur). Fitosporin will protect from root rot, it can be added to irrigation water with each feeding.
Of all the enemies of chrysanthemums (leaf rollers, snails, aphids, ticks, etc.), caterpillars are the most dangerous. Only one of them can eat several buds per night. So keep your ears open, review your plantings regularly and take action on time. Good preparations for fighting insects are Aktara, Aktellik, Ratibor, Iskra, Fitoverm, etc.
On the basis of leaves, flowers, stems of a plant, various preparations are prepared that must be taken over a long time.
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