Caring for roses in autumn: how to prepare bushes for wintering in September and October?

With the arrival of September, a crucial period begins for rose growers. The flowering time for many varieties has already passed, and it's time to prepare the bushes for wintering. If we denote in three words what it is to care for roses in the fall, then it will be: pruning, transplanting and creating a shelter for the winter. We have already written about the features of autumn pruning and the rules for hiding roses, so we will devote the article to other autumn works that are no less important for the life of plants.

September: last feeding and preparation of planting holes

Potassium-phosphorus feeding

Caring for roses begins in September with feeding the bushes. Abundant flowering takes a lot of nutrients from the bush, so the balance must be restored to strengthen the roots and branches. Top dressing is carried out either with ready-made solutions / granules, or they buy separately phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. They stop the growth of the rose, accelerate the lignification of shoots and increase the resistance of the bushes to frost.

For autumn feeding, granular fertilizers are preferable, because they are not immediately absorbed, but gradually, thereby not driving the rose to rapid ripening.

The fertilizer should not contain nitrogen, because it affects the growing season, increases the volume of green mass of plants, and in the fall this is just not necessary. If you provoke the regrowth of young shoots by feeding, this will only weaken the bush and reduce the likelihood of normal wintering. And all the green branches will die from the frost anyway.

Pinching also contributes to lignification of shoots. A week after feeding, all the tops of the branches must be cut off in a sector in order to remove the growth point.

Reduced watering

In September, they continue to cut off drying flowers and stop loosening the soil and watering, thereby stopping the growth of new roots. The root system must mature in order to withstand the winter successfully. Even if all the shoots freeze, then one dormant bud is enough to make the bush come to life again. But this requires strong, healthy, mature roots.

But in the middle of the month you can start preparing the land for planting young bushes. Rose growers have a rule: if you want to plant a rose in the spring, prepare the earth for it in the fall. Therefore, in September, they are closely engaged in preparing the soil for the future rose garden.

You can learn more about how to create a beautiful rose garden yourself from the material:

How to prepare the ground for a future planting?

Having decided on the location of the rose garden, mark the location of each bush with pegs. Consider their size in adulthood, because heavy thickening will prevent the plants from developing normally. They will begin to infect each other with fungal infections and will be poorly ventilated. In addition, the lower part of the bush will begin to turn yellow, and the leaves will begin to crumble. But too rare plantings are also unprofitable. In this case, weeds begin to settle around the rose, and the earth quickly overheats.

When preparing planting pits, they are guided by the size of an adult plant, because the height of climbing roses can reach three meters, and thickening of plantings will only harm them

Focus on the following numbers:

  • 30 cm - between miniature roses and patio;
  • half a meter - for floribunda and tea roses;
  • 70 cm - between repaired;
  • meter - between climbing;
  • one and a half - between park and semi-climbing.

The material on the features of planting and caring for a climbing rose will also be useful:

If roses are planned as part of the composition, then there should be a free space between them and other plants so that you can prune and cover for the winter without harming other flowers.

If the land on the site is fertile, then use it as part of the soil mixture, and if depleted, transfer it to another place on the site

We select the depth of the planting pit:

  • If the soil on the site is rested, and nothing has grown on it before, then all the land that you will dig out of the hole can be used to prepare a fertile mixture.
  • If all the land for the rose garden was specially brought, then a hole is dug, focusing on the length of the roots + 15 cm. So, for planting a rose with roots of 40 cm, they dig a hole 55 cm deep and half a meter wide.
  • On poor sandy or clayey lands, pits are created deeper - about 70 cm in order to fill them with fertile soil.

Depending on the number of planting holes, prepare the required amount of soil mixture, focusing on the fact that each bush will take about 2 buckets of earth. The whole mixture is created in the following proportion (1 part is 1 bucket): 2 hours of fertile soil + part of sand + part of peat + part of humus + 0.5 part of weathered clay + part of sod land.

Mineral fertilizers are added to this composition: 2 cups of bone meal + 2 cups of ash + 2 cups of dolomite flour + 100 gr. complex fertilizer for roses. All components must be mixed by sprinkling on a sheet of tin or film, and then scattered over the planting pits.

Advice! If you can't find bone meal in gardening stores, head to the Animal Nutrition Department. It can be sold there as a food supplement.

October: planting and transplanting young plants

In October, autumn care for roses is reduced to planting and transplanting young plants, as well as cleaning the soil from flying foliage and other debris. In adult plants that do not need to be transplanted, all the leaves are cut off so that they do not take food from the roots. It's time for the bush to get ready for winter, and the gardener will make it easier by pruning the leaves and young branches.

Let us dwell in more detail on planting young roses:

  • If the seedlings were bought with an open root system, then they are soaked in water with a biostimulant a day before planting.
  • Before planting, each bush is checked, the foliage and spoiled or unripe branches are completely cut off, and the aboveground part is also shortened. The optimum height of the bush is up to 35 cm. Taller plants tolerate winter worse.
  • The root system is also checked and if rotten roots are found, they are cut out. Too long roots (over 30 cm) are shortened.
  • If dormant buds are found below the vaccination site, they are removed, because this is a wild growth.
  • For disinfection, each bush is sprayed with iron sulfate.

Planting a bush:

  • Before planting, the root system is dipped in a mash made of clay and mullein, and then dipped into a hole.
  • In each hole, a mound of the prepared soil mixture should already be poured.
  • The plant is placed on a mound, straightening the roots on the sides of the hill. In no case do we wrap the roots up, but only down.
  • The grafting site should drop below the soil level by 5 cm (for climbing ones - by 7-10 cm).
  • Holding the seedling with one hand, the other is poured into the soil to the soil level, immediately compacting it with your hands.
  • After planting, they trample the ground with their feet and water it abundantly.
  • If, after watering, the graft is too deep, the rose is slightly raised and more soil is added.
  • When the moisture is completely absorbed, the bush is spud up to a height of about 20 cm.

You can learn how to grow a rose from a cutting from the material:

By the end of October, climbing varieties are removed from the trellises and gradually bent to the ground, while the branches are pliable.

When planting a rose, all the roots are straightened so that they look down. This makes the root system easier to adapt to new conditions.

Climbing roses that require shelter are trying to lay on the ground before the onset of frost, while the branches are flexible and amenable to impact, and press down with a load

November: preparing for frost

Garden rose care ends in autumn in November. This is the month of preparing the bushes for wintering. And it is necessary to have time to create shelters before the onset of stable frosts, bring spruce branches from the forest or buy lutrasil. For all the details and options for shelters for roses, read the article How to hide roses for the winter - saving the queen of flowers from frost.

  • Print

Rate the article:

(9 votes, average: 3.3 out of 5)

Share with your friends!

Roses in autumn

Autumn activities are essential for all types of roses. If you leave the bush unattended, it may not withstand winter frosts, it will not give growth in spring. What to do with roses in the fall? Actions should be aimed at solving several problems:

  • suspension of vegetation
  • slowdown of metabolic processes
  • transfer of the plant to the dormant stage
  • increased immunity
  • strengthening the root system
  • removal of excess growth and buds to maintain strength
  • frost protection.

In colder climates, growers need to know how to prepare roses for winter, follow the rules, and follow the steps.

Rose restoration after wintering: sanitary pruning of damaged shoots

First of all, you need to carry out the spring sanitary pruning of roses, namely, cut out all frozen, diseased and broken shoots.

Frozen shoots, usually, black and dry.

But to define freezing of the escape from within the color of its bark is sometimes impossible at once. But this can be easily checked by a slice, and if middle brown - the escape is frozen and you need it trim to healthy wood (until the middle is white).

If after 2-3 weeks, you notice that even on the left (seemingly good) shoots, the buds did not wake up, then they must be completely removed to the grafting site, freeing it to the maximum from the ground, i.e. rose grafting needs to be broken. It will also have a positive effect on the awakening of dormant kidneys.

To stimulate the awakening of dormant kidneys, it is recommended to provide increased humidity at the vaccination site, namely to create greenhouse conditions. For example, you can cover the rose with a cut 5 liter bottle and be sure to shade. As a rule, after 2-4 weeks, the buds should open and shoots will appear. But if this does not happen, then you should not despair and uproot the bush right away. Wait until autumn, because the rose is a very viable shrub.

And in addition, you can pour the remaining part of the bush after the sanitary pruning with a solution of the natural stimulant HB-101.

Video: what about roses in spring, how to help them after winter

Advice! After pruning, all cuts should be covered with garden varnish, and even better with RanNet paste.

It is also very important that you use only a sharp and well-disinfected secateurs, for example, it can be treated with chlorhexidine.

Other aspects of spring pruning

Advice! And in more detail with the rest of the main features of spring pruning of various types of roses you can read in this separate article.

Video: master class on pruning roses in spring (shrubs, park, climbing)


You can properly prepare a climbing rose for winter by following simple instructions. Violation of the described recommendations will lead to problems of a different nature, the plant may not bloom during the season, form incorrectly, or simply not survive the winter. In order for the rose bush to please every year, you need to strictly follow the recommendations for pruning and shelter for the winter.

Subscribe to our channel in Yandex.Zen! Click "Subscribe to the channel" to read in the "Yandex" feed

Previous Article

Stenocereus beneckei f. inermis

Next Article

Prairie Garden Design: Tips For Creating A Prairie Style Garden