About 7-8 years ago, I was lucky: I was able to get the seed material of multi-tiered onions, which, alas, are still rare on the market. Basically, gardeners exchange planting material with each other. And since then, I have been saving this amazingly tasty and healthy culture on my site.
The first information about onion forms similar in morphological characteristics to a multi-tiered onion is available in an ancient Chinese herbalist of the late 14th century (called "lau-tsi-tsun"). It speaks of onions growing in layers and not producing seeds. Scientists suggest that this plant first came from East Asia in the 19th century to England, from where it began a victorious march through European countries under the name "tree onion" or "Egyptian onion".
Due to the very strong aroma and pungent taste of the airy bulbs, they were used to make pickles from finely chopped pickled vegetables as seasoning sauces, which caused the massive consumption of the new type of onion. Much later, this type of onion appeared in Russia. Our gardeners called the multi-tiered bow differently: "horned", "viviparous", "Canadian", etc.
According to doctors, its leaves have a high phytoncidal activity, can be used as an anti-inflammatory agent, for hypertension, for diseases of the gastrointestinal tract.
Alas, now in Russia it is still considered a relatively little-known plant and has not yet received widespread distribution in our gardens, although in terms of the content of biologically active substances, if not superior, then it is not inferior to other types of onions. I can judge this fact at least by the fact that many of my acquaintances in Pskov gardeners, at best, have only heard of its existence. In the meantime, I believe that the tiered bow is one of the best perennial bows that produce greens in early spring. It significantly surpasses the batun onion, which is widespread among gardeners. It has an elastic, juicy feather crispy when cut, while the batun has a soft and not very juicy feather.
Observing certain agricultural techniques, it can be grown in one place for up to 4-5 years. Leaf growth of this onion begins very early in the spring, almost immediately after the snow melts, and after 3-3.5 weeks its feather is quite ready for use. Young leaves are the most delicate and pleasant to taste, contain a lot of vitamin C (80-90 mg per 100 g of green mass). It is believed that the yield from two-three-year-old plants is capable of reaching 3-4 kg / m², although I have not yet been able to achieve such a result. The leaf of a multi-tiered onion is fistulous (up to 80 cm long, up to 3 cm in diameter in the wide part), covered with a waxy bloom, which gives it a bluish tint.
Just before winter, the aerial part of the onion almost completely dies off, and in this state it leaves before winter. The multi-tiered onion is very winter-hardy: it tolerates, according to specialists from the All-Russian Research Institute for Seed Breeding of Vegetable Crops, severe frosts down to -45 ° C, even with a small snow cover and strong freezing of the ground. However, for this it must take root successfully enough.
For multi-tiered onions, a sharp change in temperature in March-April can also be dangerous, when after an early spring long thaw, a strong return frost again follows. At the same time, under a sufficient layer of snow, the bulbs that have fallen from the plant remain viable even on the soil surface.
After the snow melts, leaves grow quickly. Even a low soil temperature is sufficient for their appearance. The shooting of the bow (fist arrow, 30-80 cm high) occurs in May-June, starting from the second year after planting the bulbs. Unlike all onions known to us, instead of flowers and seeds, a multi-tiered onion forms in late July-early August airy bulbs arranged in several tiers (from 1 to 4) (depending on the conditions of care and climate). In Northwest Russia, it usually develops only two tiers. These bulbs (weighing 3-7 g) are covered with rather strong scales, their color is purple with a reddish tint. The higher the tier is, the smaller the size of the bulbs. Located on the arrow, the air bulbs are capable of producing green leaves. The largest bulbs grow on the first tier, their leaves reach 10-12 cm.
Especially active development of multi-tiered onions is observed in dry hot weather when sufficient soil moisture is provided. By the way, it should be borne in mind that the leaves of this onion retain their wonderful taste until the first tier of bulbs appears, gradually acquiring a pungent-bitter aftertaste. It is for these arrows that the perennial onion got its nickname "horned", and for its ability to immediately form the bulbs (without seeds) - "viviparous".
The planting material for the propagation of this type of onion is mainly small bulbs, separated from the plant and split from each other. As a rule, I myself disassemble my small-sized (I have to distribute a lot) "plantation" of multi-tiered onions almost every year in order to separate the bulbs for further reproduction. I also divide the bulbs of the underground part of the plant, which form around the arrow. There are 2-3 of them per race.
Some gardeners allot a stationary place for a multi-tiered bow for several years. At the same time, they first place the planting material with a certain distance margin, so that later the longline bulbs fall off themselves and grow by self-seeding. Those who want to follow a similar technology for growing multi-tiered onions should remember that in 3-4 years the onions will grow strongly, and nevertheless, thickening of the plantings will begin. The annual increase in the number of bulbs in the nest leads to a reduction in the feeding area of each plant. They begin to crowd each other. In this case, the leaves of the plant become smaller, the yield decreases. If you plan to leave your onion plantation for a longer period, then you should thin out the plantings: remove or transplant excess bulbs.
Multi-tiered onions are more demanding on soil fertility than other perennial onions. For its cultivation, fertile, light (pH 6-6.5), sufficiently moist, well warmed up and free from weeds (especially from rhizome and root-sprouting) soil is preferable. It should be sufficiently moist, but water should not be allowed to stagnate on the bed. On acidic, heavy clay soils, this onion does not grow well. On the site, an optimal place for perennial onions will be a place that is freed from snow early in spring.
It is very responsive to organic fertilization. The best predecessors for multi-tiered onions are legumes. Experts recommend adding 2 buckets of humus for each square meter of the garden bed and adding 30-50 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium salt and 15-25 g of ammonium nitrate. On heavy soils, additional application of a bucket of coarse river sand to the same area is required. I also apply this fertilizer rate and plant the onions out of the blue, placing the plantings in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the bulbs is 8-12 cm, and between the rows is 40 cm.
If the site is waterlogged, it is better to grow multi-tiered onions on ridges 20-25 cm high and up to 1 m wide.If you want to create a large plantation of this onion in the garden, then here experts advise using a two-three-line planting scheme (20x50 or 40x60 cm, respectively). The depth of planting the bulbs is no more than 2-3 cm. It is desirable that there is a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the top of the bulbs to the soil surface, although I had to plant them deeper. Depending on the size of the bulbs, they are consumed approximately 50-80 g / m².
As soon as the bulbs are ripe on the leaves and are easily separated from the arrows, they are removed, dried for a week in a ventilated room (or outdoors in the shade), and later planted. If you do not remove the air bulbs from the plant, after some time, they themselves fall from it and take root as self-seeding.
After harvesting, underground bulbs can be dried in the sun for several days so that its rays suppress putrefactive microorganisms on plant roots. After high-quality drying, they are stored until planting in a cool room (you can in the refrigerator) in order to slow down the germination of green leaves, although this is not always possible with late planting.
Judging by literary sources, the first half of August is considered the classic time for planting bulbs, although I had to plant some batches of onions a month later, and even much later, if the warm autumn lasted for a long time. The best option for planting this onion is right after the rain: then it takes root faster.
In the past season, I planted the bulbs and bulbs a little deeper than the recommended rate in the second decade of October, which I do not regret yet, as the weather was warm and humid almost until the end of October. As a result, the green onion leaves crawled out to the soil surface within a week after their planting.
The planting site must first be watered abundantly if the ground has long been dug up and dry. If you wish, you can temporarily cover the bed with pieces of plastic wrap to speed up germination, especially if the nights are already getting cold. Indeed, before the onset of severe cold weather, the bulbs should take root well and expel the leaves. Until it freezes completely, the soil in the aisles needs to be loosened weekly to a depth of 5-6 cm. Sometimes I cover the plantings with a thin layer of oak leaves. After the snow melts, the plants of the first year must be fed with a weak solution of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate.
On perennial plantings, it is necessary to collect the rotten remains of last year's leaves as early as possible in the spring, on which pathogenic microflora may be located. During the summer, it is required to regularly carry out inter-row soil cultivation, due to this, air exchange is improved, and weeds are carefully weeded.
Tall archers of a multi-tiered bow are characterized by instability and usually lodge under the weight of their mass. To prevent this from happening, I put numerous pegs on the garden bed, between which I pull the twine in different directions at the height of the middle of the arrows.
After each cutting of green leaves of a multi-tiered onion, experts recommend loosen the soil and feed the plantings with a solution of ammonium nitrate and potassium salt. I usually spill the soil with a mixed very weak solution of ash and mullein infusion. In dry hot weather and a lack of moisture, the plants must be watered. The leaves of this onion are cut when they reach a height of 25-30 cm, the cut is made at a height of 5-7 cm above the neck of the underground bulb.
I usually cut the leaves of this onion 2-3 times during the growing season with an interval of 20-25 days. If the onion is grown in an annual culture, then the leaves are cut off when they reach a height of 20-25 cm. Then the green onions are harvested along with the bulbs. If it is possible to use a film greenhouse for growing multi-tiered onions, then the greens of multi-tiered onions can be obtained much earlier (almost two weeks) than with conventional planting in open ground. Greenhouse young onions are characterized by a more delicate taste, and the total yield increases by almost a third.
If the plants are planned to be used as seed (to collect air bulbs from them), then the leaves are spared and, as a rule, the leaves are not cut off.
This type of onion has one remarkable property: it does not have a dormant period - as soon as you stick it into the ground to a depth of 1.5-2 cm, immediately after planting it grows.
A few years ago, I decided to try to get the greens of the tiered onions indoors. For this, in October, I planted a dozen bulbs in a container with earth. They showed a green arrow very actively and quickly. Of course, it is preferable to drive out the green mass from the root bulbs on the windowsill in winter, which give a large mass of tasty products, but so far I do not have as many of them as I would like. In addition, this material is poorly stored, so it is practically impossible to harvest it for future use.
Every year I distribute several dozen aerial bulbs of a multi-tiered onion to my friends. By the way, many years of research by VNIISSOK scientists have proven that multi-tiered onions are a very promising crop for widespread adoption not only in garden plots, but also in large production areas to obtain high-quality green onions throughout the year. It can be grown on greens in the open field both in an annual culture (after lettuce, radish, dill, early potatoes, etc.), and in a perennial (outside crop rotation) culture.
Now in the State Register of the Russian Federation there are two early-ripening, approximately identical in properties, varieties of multi-tiered onions Likova and Pamyat, on the way - the Chelyabinsk variety. Variety Likova (breeding VNIISSOK) is winter-hardy and resistant to leaf lodging. The period from the beginning of leaf regrowth to their harvesting is only 22 days, the average leaf length is 45 cm, width is about 2 cm; the taste is pungent. The basal rosette is poorly expressed. Air bulbs in a layer can be from 2 to 8 pieces, the color of their covering scales is green-purple. The yield of the variety under optimal cultivation conditions is about 4 kg per 1 m². According to VNIISSOK specialists, the value of the variety also lies in the absence of a dormant period in the bulbs and in the rapid regrowth of leaves even in conditions of insufficient illumination.
candidate of biological sciences,
Senior Researcher, All-Russian Research Institute of Plant Protection
Photo by the author
AGROTECHNIKA MULTILAYER BOW
Multi-tiered onions are a relatively new perennial crop that is quickly gaining popularity among Russian gardeners due to its frost resistance, unpretentiousness, high yield and the earliest ripening (among other onions) of elastic and tasty greens on a feather.
This is a very interesting plant. On its peduncles, airy bulbs are formed, which are laid in several tiers. The first is formed at a height of about 60 cm. From the bulbs formed on it, low shoots appear (up to 10-12 cm), on which the second tier is formed. With good care, the 3rd and 4th tiers are laid on each plant in the same way. In total, up to 30 air bulbs with a total weight of more than 3 kg can form on one multi-tiered bush. When planting and leaving, all these features of the plant must be taken into account.
Choosing a place. When choosing a planting site, it must be remembered that a multi-tiered onion has a very well-developed root system. In 3-4 years, the roots can reach a length of 1.7 m, and wide (up to 2 cm) tubular leaves grow up to 70 cm in height.
Multi-tiered onions grow well in the northern regions of the country and are not afraid of the most severe frosts. But you need to remember that this is a light-loving culture, so you need to plant it in a sunny place. He loves well-permeable, organic-rich soils. Does not tolerate the close occurrence of groundwater (their level should be no closer than 1.7 m from the earth's surface). It needs neutral soils (pH 7.0), since it will not grow on acidic soils.
Landing. The best time to plant this onion is early September. There is no dormant period for a multi-tiered onion, so you can plant it immediately after harvesting. Onions are planted in rows on a green feather.The distance between plants is 20-25, between rows - 30-40 cm. Aerial bulbs of the 1st and 2nd tiers are used as planting material.
The soil for planting is prepared in advance. On acidic, at least 3 weeks in advance, neutralization with dolomite flour is carried out at the rate of 2 kg per 6 sq.m. 3-4 days before planting, the site is dug up, bringing under digging (per 1 sq. M.): 3 buckets of rotted manure (or compost), 2 buckets of sand, 1/3 buckets of wood ash, 3 matchboxes of superphosphate and 2 boxes of sulphate potassium. The bulbs are buried 4-5 cm deep in the ground.
Some gardeners, already well acquainted with the peculiarities of this culture, use a more rational option. Having divided the garden into two parts, they often plant the bulbs on one (after 7-8 cm), on the other according to the standard scheme. The first ones in early spring are pulled along with greens, thereby thinning out the area. After planting, the onions are well watered and mulched with peat chips or straw.
It is recommended to grow a multi-tiered onion in one place for no more than 5 years. In early spring, when there is still snow, arcs are installed over the bed with a multi-tiered bow and a film is stretched. In this case, greens can be obtained 2 weeks earlier.
Fertilizers. The first feeding is carried out in early spring (at the end of March). At this time, the plant primarily needs nitrogen for the rapid regrowth of the green mass. It is better to use natural organic matter, for example, liquid mullein at a concentration of 1:10. In May, feeding is repeated. In early September, plants need phosphorus-potassium nutrition, as well as trace elements. As a fertilizer, some kind of mineral complex is used to fertilize vegetable and green crops.
Watering. It is very important for a tiered bow. In dry, but not hot weather, watered 2 times a week, carefully loosening the soil crust and mulching the ground around the plants. In the heat, watered more often. On very hot days, greens are sprinkled from a hose with an appropriate nozzle.
Pests and diseases... A multi-tiered bow practically does not get sick. In very rare cases, it may be affected powdery mildew and peronosporosis... It is not recommended to use chemical preparations, as they will accumulate in plant cells and then enter the human body. To combat these fungal diseases, spraying with solutions can help: soda ash (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water) or potassium permanganate with garlic (for 10 liters of water, 2 cups of mashed garlic and a pinch of potassium permanganate, which must be poured into water, and then filtered through cheesecloth).
Pests also practically do not visit the multi-tiered bow. In very rare cases, poor care may cause weevil and onion fly... To avoid this, you need to weed all the weeds in time, as well as remove dried and decayed feathers.
Cleaning. Aerial bulbs are harvested at the end of August after the arrows ripen and die off. At this time, the aerial bulb is divided into two parts.
Since this culture is very frost-resistant, for the winter, beds with multi-tiered onions are not covered. Although in the first year, when the root system of the plant is still too weak in autumn, it is better to insure yourself and cover the plantings with spruce branches and a thin layer of lutrasil.
MOON AND ZODIAC SIGNS
There are four phases of the moon, the strength of its energy in each of them is not the same. This is due to the different distances between the Moon and the Sun. The closer she is to the heavenly body, the more dependent on him. Since ancient times, the four phases of the moon have been associated with four elements: earth - new moon, water - first quarter, air - full moon, fire - last quarter. The beginning of the lunar cycle is the new moon. For the entire cycle, the moon passes through twelve signs of the zodiac.
The change in the phases of the moon from new moon to full moon and again to new moon occurs in 29.5 days - the lunar month, which is shorter than the solar one and is called synodic. Lunar days, on the contrary, are longer than solar ones and are 24.5 hours. And, of course, the rising and setting of the moon do not coincide with solar time.
During the period of changing the phases of the moon, we experience four lunar seasons: spring - from new moon to first quarter, summer - from first quarter to full moon, autumn - from full moon to last quarter, and winter - from last quarter to new moon. The lunar month is a miniature solar year. If during a solar year the Earth makes a full revolution around the Sun, then for a lunar year - the Moon around the Earth. This occurs as a result of the influence of the Moon's gravitational belt, which causes changes in temperature, atmospheric pressure, the Earth's magnetic field, and the earth's biosphere. Not only living organisms as a whole or their individual parts are influenced, but also the soil.
It is well known that in spring, plants acquire foliage, they grow upward. Their vital energy is greatest in summer, on the full moon. Then there is a decline, the juices rush to the roots, etc. That is why greens, berries, fruits and vegetables growing above the ground acquire the highest taste closer to the full moon, and roots - to the new moon. In the first case, the "tops", and in the second, the "roots" are maximally saturated with vital juices, vitamins, mineral salts.
The Moon also affects humans, animals and all living beings, depending on its phase.
Many people, especially those who are weak, have symptoms of malaise, agitation, joint pain, headaches, etc. on the days when the phases of the moon change.
The change in the phases of the moon and plants is also perceived. Therefore, for example, the energetic roots of plants, damaged during the waning moon, are difficult to recover.
Carrying out certain work in the garden and vegetable garden, taking into account the movement of the moon, without additional effort and material costs, you can increase the yield by 20% and get products of higher quality. Plants planted in a favorable period acquire immunity, are less affected by diseases and pests.
You will be rewarded for your work, the golden rules of which were: sowing seeds, planting seedlings of plants growing above the ground (tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, strawberries, onions on a feather, leaf parsley, etc.) with the growing Moon of plants with fruits and the ground ( beets, carrots, potatoes, onions for a turnip, etc.) - with the waning moon.
A feature of growing plants is that on the new moon, on its peak three days - the day before the transition from one rhythm to another, the peak day and the day following it (if it is necessary to sow when the moon is growing, then two days) nothing should be planted and sow. 11e are the best for planting vegetables, berries, bushes, etc. and peak days of changing other phases of the moon.
Do not engage in any agrotechnical activities on Satanic days, the energy in which is unfavorable for humans and for all life on Earth, including plants. They do not sow even when the moon is visible in the sky, in the first hours of its rising and setting. Relax during this time. Sow, plant when the moon is over the horizon.
The growth and productivity of plants also depend on what sign of the zodiac the moon is in at the time of landing. Astrologers in the distant past came to the conclusion that the signs of the zodiac have different effects on the growth of plants, the safety of their fruits. They subdivided signs into productive and unproductive.
Productive signs of the zodiac - this is Taurus, Cancer, Libra, Scorpio, Capricorn, Pisces. Of these, the most productive is Cancer. But it has a bad effect on fruits intended for snoring. The fruits collected in this sign, as a result of the active development of microorganisms, have poor keeping quality, they quickly rot.
Unproductive signs - Aries, Gemini, Virgo, Leo, Aquarius, Sagittarius. Of these, they are sterile, which should not be planted at all - Aries, Leo, Sagittarius, Aquarius. True, there is also a small individual peculiarity here. With the Moon in the sign of Aries, you can plant lettuce, spinach in the sign of Virgo - ornamental plants in the sign of Leo - trees and shrubs. But it is better not to take risks, but to engage in planting in productive signs.
For planting various crops, the best signs of the zodiac are recognized: tomatoes and cucumbers - Cancer, Pisces, Carrot Scorpio - Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces, Libra, Goat and garlic, pepper and onion - Scorpio potatoes la - Cancer, Scorpio, Taurus, Libra, Capricorn cabbage - Ra k, Scorpio, Pisces, Taurus, Libra of courgettes, pumpkins and eggplants - Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces, Libra.
It is recommended to plant trees immediately after the full moon with the Moon in the signs of Capricorn and Leo.
When choosing zodiac signs for planting, please do not forget about the phases of the moon. But what about when the landing time has come, and the Moon and the sign of the zodiac do not coincide, that is, either the sign is unproductive, or the Moon is in the wrong phase? In these cases, give preference to the zodiac sign.
The best period for watering crops is the time when the Moon is in the signs of Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces, Libra.
Plants are fed with fertilizers on a full moon or with a waning moon.
Trees should be pruned in productive signs and with a waning moon, and if it is necessary to increase the growth of shoots - with a growing moon.
Grafting and re-grafting trees in the first and second quarters with the Moon in Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces, Capricorn.
Cuttings are prepared for grafting trees during the growth of the moon.
They fight against pests and diseases of plants in barren signs - Gemini, Virgo, Aquarius - with the growing moon. At the same time, they are engaged in weeding the beds and destroying weeds. Weeding can also be carried out during the waning moon, but you need to be careful not to injure the root system of plants. And yet the best period for the destruction of weeds, pests, cutting of dried and diseased branches, shoots is the peak period of the new moon (three days).
An important point of work in the garden and vegetable garden is not only planting and growing plants, but also the period of picking fruits, picking berries, harvesting vegetables, which gardeners and gardeners often neglect. And on this depends the safety of the crop, its usefulness, taste, saturation with vitamins, microelements, etc.
Vegetables and fruits intended for storage in fresh and processed form are harvested during the waning moon for consumption immediately after picking - with the growing moon, closer to the full moon, when they are most saturated with juices. The best signs of the zodiac for collecting fruits during the waning moon are Aries, Leo, Sagittarius. Unsuitable for harvesting is the period when the Moon is in the signs of Virgo, Cancer, Pisces. The fruits collected at this time quickly deteriorate, they are watery, of low taste.
Since microbes in barren signs are on the decline of biorhythms and during this period they have little activity, it is better to harvest roots in the signs of Aries, Gemini, Leo, Sagittarius, Aquarius. As for potatoes, remember: harvested under the Moon in Scorpio, it is not only poorly stored, but also loses its taste. Don't dig it up in Cancer and Pisces.
Take care of preserving the fruits during the waning moon, closer to the new moon, in the signs of Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces. Fruit should not be preserved in the sign of Virgo, as the resulting products are prone to mold.
And most importantly, remember that like humans and animals, seeds and sprouts are sensitive to your state of mind. Therefore, under stress, irritability, one should not engage in sowing seeds, planting seedlings, planting trees, bushes and berry bushes. You can ruin the case. Relax, calm down and only then communicate with all living things.
Aries is a moderately productive, if not sterile, sign. The ruler is Mars. When the moon passes through it, plant and sow only fast-growing and immediately consumed vegetables: sorrel, lettuce. You can plant onions, garlic, peppers, gooseberries. It is good to carry out weeding, spraying, cultivation at this time. You can pick fruits and root vegetables.
Taurus is an earthy, productive sign. The ruler is Venus. Moon in Taurus has a good effect on cabbage, carrots, beets, radishes, onions, potatoes, garlic, green crops, trees. It is good to plant something that will winter. Plants gain more endurance.
Gemini is an airy, barren sign. The ruler is Mercury. You can plant climbing plants, harvest medicinal herbs, cut trees, bushes, cultivate the soil.
Cancer is a watery, productive sign. The ruler is the Moon. It has an especially good effect on crops saturated with juices: cucumbers, pumpkin, zucchini. It is more expedient to use the grown products fresh. You can sow and transplant vegetables that are not intended for long-term storage, harvest herbs. Good for watering, grafting. It is best not to plant potatoes and vegetables growing in height.
Leo is a fiery, moderately productive sign. The ruler is the Sun. The sign requires special attention to plant care. You can weed, control pests, prune and cut trees. Only trees and shrubs can be planted with abundant watering.
Virgo is an earthly, unproductive sign. The ruler is Mercury. You can plant medicinal herbs and flowers, do weeding, cultivation.
Libra is an airy, unproductive sign. The ruler is Venus. Different plants can be planted, they will be resistant to diseases and unfavorable climatic conditions, but their productivity will be inferior to those planted in fertile signs. There he gives beauty and aroma. Especially favorable for planting plants during the waning moon.
Scorpio is a watery, productive sign. The ruler is P luton, but to a greater extent depends on the energy of Mars. Suitable for planting most crops. This sign gives good growth and strength to the stems. Plants will be disease resistant. With this sign, it is necessary to exclude the treatment of plants with pesticides. Inadmissible injury to plants. It is not recommended to harvest ai, cut and dig in trees.
Sagittarius is a fiery, unproductive sign. The ruler is Jupiter. You can sow only fast-growing vegetables, as well as vegetables with a pungent taste: onions, garlic, peppers. You can harvest fruits and roots, weed plants, cultivate the soil, but avoid using sharp tools.
Capricorn is an earthly, productive sign. Similar to Taurus, but drier. The ruler is Saturn. Plants with a well-developed root system are planted: onions, beets, carrots, potatoes, cabbage, gooseberries, currants. Plants acquire endurance, resistance to diseases and adverse conditions. Trees will be hardy and bear fruit for a long time. Grown products are well preserved in the off-season. The bulbs are planted with the waning moon.
Aquarius is an airy, sterile, sterile sign. The ruler is Uranus. During this period, it is good to deal with weeds and pests, to collect fruits and roots.
Pisces is an aquatic, productive sign. The ruler is Neptune. All plants are planted, but they require careful maintenance, the crop is poorly stored. The sign is similar to Cancer, Taurus, but is associated with a secret, therefore crops, planting should be done alone, unnoticed from "black" eyes.
Gardeners appreciate multi-tiered onions for their ease of growing, unpretentious care, juicy crunchy bulbs and, undoubtedly, an unusual appearance.
Gardeners grow multi-tiered onions without any problems even in northern latitudes, and residents of southern regions provide themselves with fresh herbs and juicy elastic bulbs for several months in a row.
When the feather reaches 20 cm in length, the planting must be thinned out, leaving 30 cm between the bushes to prevent infestation of the onion with peronospora and form a nest. In the future, all care for a multi-tiered onion consists in regular loosening, watering, weeding and thinning after collecting the bulbs (late July - mid-August). It is equally important to remove dried leaves in a timely manner.
When arrows appear on the onion, stick a peg near each bush and tie the plant so that the arrows do not fall under the weight of the bulbs over time.
In the second year, multi-tiered onions are fed with a complex mineral fertilizer: 15 g of potash, 40 g of phosphorus, 20 g of nitrogen. For the prevention of diseases, onions are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
The peak yield of multi-tiered onions occurs 3-4 years after planting. The harvest of horned onions is harvested when the bulbs turn dark purple and are covered with a bluish bloom. Just at this time, the above-ground bulbs are easily separated from the arrows. The greens are removed no more than twice a season, cutting off the feathers at a height of 5-7 cm from the neck of the underground bulb. The collected aerial bulbs can be stored in the refrigerator or freezer.
Try growing a multi-tiered onion in your summer cottage to make sure from your own experience that this is one of the best perennial onions!
Once you have planted a multi-tiered bow in your garden, you can be sure that you will be provided with sufficient planting material. This is due to the fact that the bulbs themselves form up to four daughter bulbs during the growing season.
In addition, the arrows of a multi-tiered onion form not flowers in the inflorescences, but small bulbs, which are identical in structure to a regular bulb and are ready-made planting material.
And that is not all. As soon as the bulbs at the end of the arrow grow, the arrow continues its growth upward from the center of the inflorescence and at the end another layer of small bulbs grows - indeed, this type of onion is called viviparous. There can be up to four tiers in total.