Grouse (fritillaria) is a perennial bulbous plant, not yet very well known to our flower growers, but quickly becoming "fashionable". Its beautiful large flowers are similar in shape to drooping bells. The hazel grouse planted in the garden drives away dangerous pests - the bear and the mole. The most common hazel grouse is royal (imperial), which is planted just in the fall.
Planting hazel grouse in the climatic conditions of our country is carried out exclusively in the fall (including the end of August). This is due to the peculiarities of the development of the flower and its bulb, in particular:
If you plant hazel grouse bulbs in the spring, they may not have time to collect enough nutrients during the spring-summer period and how to get stronger. Before the onset of serious autumn frosts, such bulbs, as a rule, do not fully ripen, which is fraught with their death in winter or, at best, poor flowering next year.
The only case of spring planting is appropriate if the bulbs were purchased in winter: in this case, they should be planted in pots already in February-March, where they will begin the growing season. Then, with the arrival of relatively warm weather, the plants from the pots are carefully transplanted into the open ground.
Obviously, this path is much more difficult than the autumn planting of bulbs, so the latter has only advantages. The disadvantages of planting in the fall may be that sometimes frosts unexpectedly come too early: in this case, freezing of bulbs that are not covered in time for the winter is possible.
In order for the hazel grouses to bloom well, the timing of planting the bulbs should not be violated.
The specific dates for the autumn planting of hazel grouses vary somewhat depending on the climate of the region and real weather. Unfortunately, these terms are very short and are based on the fact that 3-4 weeks of a relatively warm time are required for full-fledged rooting of the bulbs. If you plant them later, before the onset of frost, good roots will not have time to form, if earlier, the flowers can grow, which is unacceptable in autumn. Therefore, flower growers in each region are guided by long-term observations of the weather, counting the required dates from the day of the usual onset of severe frosts.
If the temperature at night is stable at a level of several degrees above zero, you should not postpone the planting of hazel grouses.
The approximate dates for planting the bulbs are as follows:
Of course, you need to pay attention to the weather and its forecast. If at the recommended time there are warm days and forecasters do not promise a sharp cold snap, you can wait a week, but seriously postponing landing is risky.
The autumn planting of hazel grouses practically does not differ from that for other bulbous flowers and does not require special knowledge and skills.
The site for planting hazel grouses should be located in a sunny place, but they grow well in partial shade. Based on this, lovers of very early flowers break a flowerbed for hazel grouses in the sun, and if the flowering time is not important, they can even be planted near trees. A serious limitation when choosing a place is that there is no stagnation of melt and rainwater on it. The optimal soil is fertile loams, but hazel grouses can grow on other soils. It is important to create conditions for sufficient air permeability of the soil: it must be loose. Therefore, sand and peat must be added to clay soils.
Hazel grouses look spectacular both in the open and near trees
Some growers dig up hazel grouse bulbs annually, but this is not necessary. These flowers can grow in one place for 4-5 years. Therefore, when preparing a flower bed, the soil should be thoroughly fertilized. Digging of the site is carried out 3-4 weeks before the expected planting of the bulbs. When digging, the rhizomes of the weeds are carefully removed and applied to 1 m2 areas of up to two buckets of organic matter (humus, compost), a liter can of wood ash and 30–40 g of superphosphate. It is also good to use a special complex fertilizer for bulbous crops (dosage - on the package). On the day before planting, the flower bed is leveled with a rake.
Preparing the bulbs starts with choosing the right bulbs. The bulbs of hazel grouses are very large, completely unlike the bulbs of other plants, they can even weigh half a kilogram, and sometimes more. To the touch, a good bulb is hard, practically does not crumble with fingers, has no traces of rot and mechanical damage, but has a through hole “from top to bottom”.
If there are remnants of a dried stem, do not forcibly tear it off.
The presence of small roots does not mean that the bulb is already seriously vegetating and urgently needs to be “buried”. The fact is that the hazel grouse bulbs are dug up long before planting (shortly after flowering), and with errors in storage conditions, they can have time to release roots. If the length of the roots does not exceed a few centimeters, this is not scary, but there is a great danger of breaking them off when planting (it is better to shorten too long roots).
Grouse bulbs have little resemblance to tulip or gladioli bulbs
Like any bulbs, the planting material of hazel grouses is disinfected before planting. Usually, a half-hour treatment with a pink solution of potassium permanganate is used for this, but Fitosporin, Fundazol and other similar drugs can be used. Naturally, the bulbs cleaned of earth and sand are subjected to bathing in disinfectant solutions.
As a rule, hazel grouses are planted in groups: 5-6 bulbs are placed in one large hole at once. Therefore, the planting hole for these flowers is practically a planting hole and is prepared in almost the same way as for berry bushes. After all, the planting depth of the bulb should be approximately three times the height of the bulb, and therefore, it is 25-30 cm. Only the smallest bulbs are planted to a depth of 15–20 cm.
The width of the hole is made equal to 40-50 cm so that all the bulbs can fit in it with small gaps between them. With a mass planting, at least 40 cm is left between such pits. All these distances can be adjusted depending on the variety of hazel grouse, more precisely, on the size of an adult plant.
The planting process is very simple and consists of the following steps.
A hole for planting hazel grouses is prepared almost like for currants
Some growers plant bulbs almost lying down.
Watering the flower beds is necessary only in case of dry weather.
Until the start of severe frosts, almost nothing needs to be done with plantings. Only in case of prolonged drought can you moderately water the flower bed 1-2 times from a watering can. Top dressing in the current season is no longer needed, and next year they have the same character as for all bulbous flowers: urea in early spring, potash fertilizers before flowering. If weeds have time to appear on the flowerbed this fall, they are carefully pulled out.
Before the onset of severe frosts in those regions where snow falls late or there are severe frosts, it is necessary to insulate the plantings by adding mulching material (you can cut straw) with a layer of up to 12-15 cm. It is especially important to insulate the planting of small bulbs and children. In the coldest regions, shelter with coniferous spruce branches is also added. Insulating layers should be removed in the spring immediately after the snow cover melts.
In the coldest regions, the flower bed is covered with spruce or pine spruce branches.
Grouse - unusually beautiful flowers; Fortunately, they are not difficult to grow. However, the bulbs need to be planted on time: unfortunately, the best planting times, in late August and early September, are very short.
For many summer residents and gardeners, onions are one of those important agricultural crops that they will plant in their dachas and personal plots in the coming new season. Onions are not particularly picky in growing, but they require timely planting in the ground and proper care during ripening.
If you do everything right, adhere to the advice of the Lunar calendar of planting onions in Siberia for 2021, choose the safest for planting days that will favor the successful growth and successful development of this culture, then you can get the joy of the housewives a generous harvest of this vegetable, from which they cook a variety of dishes, including adding it to conservation for the coming winter.
The grouse imperial flower is one of more than 140 plant species belonging to the genus Fritillaria. Its name comes from the characteristic bowl-shaped flowers - the Latin word fritillus means dice.
Fritillaria is a spring flower from the Liliaceae family, distinguished from others by its majestic size and spectacular inflorescence. This is a real garden decoration that is worth using in many colorful compositions.
The plant comes from southern Asia - in India, Iran, Pakistan, found in the wild. In our country, it is grown as an ornamental plant, appreciated for its exotic appearance.
The hazel grouse is a rather tall flower, the tallest among the representatives of the species. The stiff stem can reach up to 1 meter in height, and leaves form both at the base and above the flowers, creating an interesting crown. The leaves are arranged in 3-4 whorls, lanceolate, 7-18 cm long, reaching about 2/3 of the shoot height, located in four to eight pieces.
You can enjoy the flowers of this wonderful plant from April to May. The hazel grouse gives 3-5 flowers about 5 cm long on average.
The inflorescence is umbellate, contains 3-8 bell-shaped hanging flowers. A bunch of standing leaves is characteristic above the flowers. Depending on the variety, flowers are:
The hazel grouse bulb is large, white, spherical, has no covering scales, with a not very pleasant smell. There is a characteristic hole in the middle of the bulb.
Attention! The bulb of the imperial crown and the whole plant are poisonous and have very thin, delicate scales, so it is better to use gloves when working.
The flower gives a fruit - a box. Seeds are difficult to set, if necessary, it is necessary to carry out artificial pollination
It is interesting! The imperial crown not only decorates the flower bed, but also scares away voles, moles, hares, and other rodents from visiting the garden. This is due to the aroma exuded by the plant, which these animals do not like. The plant gives off a very strong odor, especially on hot days.
The timing of planting clematis in the spring is due to the stages of plant development. It is advisable to plant early flowering varieties as early as possible, the rest 2-3 weeks later. The optimal date is April. In regions with cooler climates - May. It is important to monitor your kidney health. They should not grow up before planting.
The second factor on which the planting time in spring depends is the condition of the clematis seedling. If young shoots have appeared on it, then plants can be planted when the threat of frost has passed. If the buds are dormant, but the root system is open, then the best time in spring is April.
Below are descriptions and photos of different species of hazel grouse. The color of these wonderful flowers is quite varied.
An inhabitant of our website Samdolis wrote about Mikhailovsky's hazel grouse and its planting perfectly in the article "A new plant in my garden: Mikhailovsky's hazel grouse."
The cultivar 'Ivory Bell' has a yellow-green color. Plant height is about 1 m. It is very thermophilic and may not bloom at all in the middle lane.
When breeding hazel grouses in your garden, do not forget - they look great both as a single plant and in groups. Suitable for alpine landings. Planted in different places of the flower beds, they are also beautiful. And don't be discouraged that their bloom lasts only one month - this is an unforgettable period of summer.
In order for the plum to please with crops, you need before growing:
The development of plums during cultivation is stimulated by top dressing. For the first 2-3 years after planting, the plum will have enough substances introduced during the laying. Then fertilizers alternate: for a year the plum is fed with organic matter (infusions of mullein, bird droppings, slurry, compost, herbal "brilliant green"), for a year - with mineral salts (in April, before flowering, - 15–20 g of carbamide per 1 m², in May, after flowering, - 20 g of double superphosphate + 30 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m² of the trunk circle). From inorganic plums, phosphorus and potassium are needed (for root development and the formation of beautiful fruits).
In the spring, there is enough moisture in the soil, and the plum does not need watering. She needs it during the period of fruit ripening, from June to August inclusive.Watering rate - 50 liters per 1 m². The wet care schedule is approximately as follows:
In this case, it is necessary to follow some rules of wet care:
Pruning care is carried out in March, early spring. Trees are formed in tiers (3-3-2 skeletal branches). The distance between the branches is 15 cm, between the tiers - 50 cm.The height of the trunk is 40 cm.
The developed branches of young plums with a length of more than 45 cm are shortened by 1/4 of the length to stimulate the formation of shoots. During fruiting, the crown is rid of dry and thickening branches.
Mulching when growing plums is carried out to maintain the quality of the soil. It prevents the formation of an earth crust and prevents moisture from evaporating quickly.
Mulch for plum care can be organic (sawdust, shavings, cut grass, hay, needles, moss) and inorganic (newspapers and films). Its functions are as follows:
Plum, when grown, forms more adventitious roots if mulched. Before this type of care, top dressing is carried out.
After flowering, remove the seed pods from the lilies, but do not cut the leaves and stems - they continue to feed the bulb and are still needed by the plant for photosynthesis. When it is time to dig up and transplant the lily, cut off its ground part and remove the bulb with children from the ground, clean it from soil, inspect for mechanical damage, insect gnawing, rotten roots, dry scales and other defects, rinse under running water, carefully separate those children who are ready to leave, place the planting material for half an hour in a 1% solution of Karbofos or in a strong solution of potassium permanganate, then dry it in the shade and plant it in the ground in a new place or put it in storage.
Where and how best to store lily bulbs? Put a layer of peat in a plastic bag or box, put a layer of onions on it, cover it with a layer of peat, on which again put a layer of onions, the last layer in the container should be made of peat. Now consider the options for storing containers with bulbs.
The basic requirements for storing lilies are as follows:
Based on these recommendations, you can put the lily bulbs in a plastic bag filled with peat and place them in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator at a stable temperature (0 to 5 ºC), which allows the bulbs to remain dormant. But the disadvantage of a refrigerator as a storage is that fruits can be stored there simultaneously with the bulbs, which release ethylene into the air, which makes it difficult for lily bulbs to breathe.
You can put the bulbs in the cellar or basement until spring if the temperature and humidity are suitable for them. Or place the planting material in cardboard boxes, heat chambers or other containers with good thermal insulation and keep them on a balcony, loggia or garage. Just do not forget that in a room with large windows on sunny days the temperature even in winter rises to the "plus" mark, from which the lilies can sprout.
It is advisable to store the bulbs so that in the middle of winter you can check several times in what condition they are. If you find dry roots or scales on them, spray the bulbs with water, and if you find mold, rotten roots or areas, place the planting material for half an hour in a potassium permanganate solution, dry it and put it in storage in another place where the air humidity is not so high. ...
Daffodils are vibrant and popular plants not only among gardeners. Artists and poets use them in their work, designers - in decorating landscapes. I grow different varieties of daffodils, these are very "convenient" plants, caring for daffodils is not difficult even for a beginner in the garden.
Daffodils are unique plants in any garden. These are frost-hardy and unpretentious flowers, they multiply easily and quickly. Unlike other bulbs (tulips, crocuses), daffodils do not need to be dug out after flowering. They practically do not have a dormant period in their life cycle, after the completion of flowering, new roots begin to grow in 3-4 weeks. The plant remains in one place for 5-6 years, creating a colony of children around it. After this period, the flowers need to be transplanted. Being sun-loving plants, daffodils do not wither even in partial shade. A place under the crowns of trees is suitable for them, the shade will not affect flowering. Another feature of daffodils is the plant poisons contained in the bulbs. Thanks to them, pests and rodents avoid these plants. I use planting daffodils as a natural defense against these adversities, placing them among other bulbous plants.
For proper autumn planting of daffodils, soil preparation and mineralization is more important than feeding already flowering plants. If the soil in the area is acidic, neutralize the acid with slaked lime one year before planting. Then add the manure as well. Dig up the area to a depth of 25 cm. A few months before planting, dig up the earth with compost or humus, add superphosphate. In the future, caring for the planting of daffodils will need top dressing twice a year: nitrogen in early spring, and complex fertilizers during the period of active budding. If the soil is heavy clay - loosen it with sand, if, on the contrary, sandy - add clay to retain moisture. Choose a planting site so that the water table does not rise above 60 cm.
If you do not plant old beds, but buy new planting material, choose the bulbs carefully. Do not buy plants in airtight containers. Healthy bulbs are firm and firm. They are free from damage, soft spots and stains. I advise you to buy daffodil bulbs in the middle of summer, store in a dry place at a temperature of 17 degrees. Two weeks before planting, lower the temperature to 10-12 degrees. Before storing purchased bulbs, treat them with preparations against ticks and fungal diseases. Immediately before planting, hold in a strong solution of potassium permanganate, dry in the shade.
Choosing the right timing for planting daffodils is a determining factor in further flowering. The bulb takes 3-4 weeks to root at a soil temperature of 8-10 degrees. In the northern regions, this requirement is met at the end of August or early September, in the southern regions - early October. Planting daffodils early is more dangerous than delaying, because sprouted young shoots will not withstand the frost. If you are late with planting, just cover the beds with non-woven fabric for the winter. Do not use polyethylene for these purposes, it does not breathe, the bulbs will rot and die. The planting depth of daffodils is equal to the threefold girth of the bulb. For heavy soils, decrease this figure by 3 cm, for light soils, increase it. Plant the bulbs according to your idea, in groups, or in rows, leaving a distance of 10-15 cm between plantings. To plant daffodils, dig trenches, or remove the top layer of soil, or use a special device for planting bulbs. After planting, lightly compact and water the soil. When the ground is 3-4 cm frozen, cover the beds with a layer of foliage. In the spring, after the snow melts, remove the covering material to allow the sun to warm the earth.
Do not be afraid to experiment with a color scheme, with the cultivation of new varieties. Daffodils will firmly settle in your heart thanks to a simple and unpretentious planting, easy maintenance, and colorful and abundant flowering.