Chinese Belamkanda (Iris domestica) is a garden plant from the Belamkanda genus. It belongs to the Iris family and really resembles it very much with its foliage. One of the names of the plant is Leopard Lily. The flowers are more like graceful lilies. In nature, such a plant lives in the Far East, in its warm regions. Despite the status of an ornamental plant used in floriculture, the natural analogue of this belamcanda is listed in the Red Book.
Despite the fact that the Chinese belamcanda is not the only representative of its kind, only this type of flower is grown in the culture. It is a perennial with a wide rhizome located close enough to the soil surface. Its hard xiphoid foliage can reach half a meter in length and up to 30 cm in width. The size of the peduncles can exceed the length of the leaves by 2 times or even more. Each shoot can form up to 20 flowers, while several buds can bloom at the same time.
Chinese belamcanda has rather large 6-petal oval flowers. In shape, they resemble some lilies, which is why the plant is sometimes called the Chinese lily or the Chinese orchid. Despite the short lifespan of each flower (only a day), their large number and constant change provide a fairly long flowering period. It usually falls in July-August.
Flowers can have different colors - in pink or yellow tones, while the petals are additionally decorated with darker spots. Inflorescences of young plants often have a paler color and gain fullness of shades only over the years. The fruits appearing in place of flowers are similar in shape to blackberries, but are considered inedible.
Belamkanda prefers sunny corners, but is able to grow well in a light lace shade. The soil for planting should not be heavy. Soils with a high humus content and a good drainage layer are suitable - stagnant moisture can destroy plantings. About 20 cm should be kept between the plants.
The area around the belamkanda bushes should be mulched with humus or compost. This will help the plants get more nutrients. In addition to such organic additives, you can feed flowers with mineral compounds twice a month. During the flowering period, such dressings are carried out weekly.
Belamkanda tolerates dry periods much better than waterlogging. In order not to flood the bushes, you need to be more careful about the watering regime. Such plants should be moistened only as needed: between waterings, the earth should have time to dry out.
The heat-loving Chinese belamkanda is not able to withstand the frosty winter in the open field. Cooling down to -15 degrees is considered critical for it. In the southern regions, the flower can be grown as a perennial, but in winter, a shelter should still be organized for it.
In the middle belt of Belamkand, it is grown only as an annual crop. To protect a flower from frost is possible only with the help of a transplant. In the fall, the bush, along with the earthen lump, is moved into a portable container, and in late spring it is returned to the garden.
If you wish, you can try to grow belamcanda as a home flower. In this case, he will require approximately the same conditions as in the garden. In the summer, such potted specimens can be taken out into the air without planting in open ground - the plant will bloom even in a pot. The planting mixture is usually a combination of turf, peat and sand.
In winter, such belamkandas go to rest, shedding their foliage. To provide them with a full-fledged dormant period, the pots with flowers should be moved to a cool (not lower than +10 degrees) room, but a warmer winter is also permissible. Top dressing at this time is completely stopped, and watering is reduced to a minimum.
Chinese belamcanda can be propagated in two ways. The first one is seed. Despite the fact that the bushes growing in the garden are capable of self-seeding, seeds that fall into the ground in winter usually die. To propagate belamcanda in this way, you need to wait for the ripening of the fruits, collect them and save them until spring.
With the onset of warm days, you can sow the Chinese lily directly into the ground, but in this case the flowers will appear later or even not have time to bloom before frost. To be sure to admire the inflorescences in the current season, it is recommended to grow seedlings. Sowing is started in March, after keeping the seeds in a pale manganese solution for a day. As a soil, you can take any light and nutritious mixture, for example, by mixing peat and sand.
Crop containers should be stratified. The containers covered with bags are placed in a cool place or in the refrigerator. In such conditions, fresh seeds should hatch in 1-2 weeks, while old ones can germinate up to a couple of months. With the appearance of sprouts, the containers are returned to heat and placed in the light. As soon as the seedlings have a third true leaf, they should be cut into separate containers. The planting of such seedlings is carried out only after stable warm weather is established on the street.
Adult belamkanda bushes that have reached 4 years of age can be divided. To do this, they are dug up and divided into parts with your fingers, trying to ensure that each division contains several of its own shoots. The plants obtained in this way are planted in sandy soil with a sufficient drainage layer, and then fertilized with humus.
Belamcanda is considered resistant to pests and rarely gets sick, but can be affected by rot caused by over-watering. The delicate root system of the flower rarely experiences such lesions, but if the focus is small enough, you can transplant the bushes and treat them with fungicidal preparations.
Thanks to the work of breeders, belamcanda has several hybrid varieties. Among them:
Currently, phlox in the garden is nowhere.
But they fade, and before phlox paniculata still have to live.
After all, the earliest varieties will bloom only in early-mid-July. What is the use of that "flox-free time"?
This is phlox Caroline, or thick-leaved (P. Carolina), which blooms from early June to late July. This plant is still not widespread.
But I strongly recommend - plant it in a flower garden, you will not regret it.
Bushes with shiny dense foliage during flowering reach a height of 60-70 cm.It is impossible to pass by, its pink flowers are so bright and attractive. They say there is also a white-flowered form, but I have not yet met it.
Most irises are rhizomatous plants, only a few species, allocated in a special group, form bulbs. From the point of view of growing conditions, all irises can be divided into two main types: moisture-loving and dry-loving.
In the modern classification, many plants from closely related species of the Iris family are classified as irises, although not all experts agree with such a combination.
In the middle lane, most of them bloom from early to late June, except for several earlier (Russian, Pumila, all iridodictiums) and later (xiphoid, domestic, forked, spuria) species.
Moisture-loving irises in nature grow along the banks of reservoirs and damp meadows. In the garden, they need regular, abundant watering.
Marsh iris (airovidny) is a winter-hardy species with yellow flowers that grows along the banks of reservoirs throughout Russia.
Iris marsh grows along the banks of reservoirs throughout Russia
Winter-hardy iris smooth with blue flowers grows along the banks of reservoirs in Siberia and the Far East.
Iris smooth grows along the banks of reservoirs in Siberia and the Far East
Iris bristly with blue-violet flowers - the most frost-resistant of all irises, grows in the damp meadows of Eastern Siberia and North America.
Iris bristly with blue-violet flowers - the most frost-resistant of all irises
Multicolored iris is a very winter-hardy North American species with blue-blue or lilac-purple flowers that grows along the banks of reservoirs.
Iris multicolored - a very winter-hardy North American species
Mint Fresh is a variety of multicolored iris with painted white and lilac petals.
Mint Fresh - a variety of multicolored iris with painted white and lilac petals
Spectacular Louisiana irises with reddish-lilac, blue-violet and white flowers normally winter only in the subtropics of the Krasnodar Territory.
Louisiana irises have very low winter hardiness
The frost-resistant and unpretentious Siberian iris with violet-blue flowers grows in wet meadows throughout Russia.
Frost-resistant and unpretentious Siberian iris grows in wet meadows throughout Russia
Snow Queen (Snow Queen) is an old variety of Siberian iris with white flowers.
Snow Queen (Snow Queen) - an old variety of Siberian iris with white flowers
Cambridge is a very hardy old Siberian iris with blue-blue flowers.
Cambridge is a very hardy old Siberian iris with blue-blue flowers
Coronation Enthem is a Siberian iris variety with vibrant purple-blue flowers.
Coronation Enthem is a variety of Siberian iris with vibrant purple-blue flowers
Sultan Ruby is a variety of Siberian iris with dark lilac petals.
Sultan Ruby - a variety of Siberian iris with dark lilac petals
Lavender Bounty is a variety of Siberian iris with delicate lilac flowers.
Lavender Bounty - a variety of Siberian iris with delicate lilac flowers
Iris xiphoid (Kempfer's iris) grows in damp meadows in the Far East and East Asia. Its natural form with dark purple flowers is quite winter-hardy in central Russia when planted in elevated areas without stagnant water and regular watering in drought. It blooms in July, later than most other species.
Iris xiphoid (Kempfer's iris) grows in damp meadows in the Far East and East Asia
The garden forms of Kempfer's iris with flowers of various colors are known as Japanese irises. They have low winter hardiness, require dry wintering and abundant watering during the flowering period.
The garden forms of Kempfer's iris with flowers of various colors are known as Japanese irises.
Indoor iris with orange flowers, better known as Chinese belamcanda, blooms only at the end of July. His winter hardiness is average.
Domestic iris is better known as Chinese belamcanda.
Dry-loving irises naturally grow on dry meadows, in steppes and on rocky slopes. In the garden, they need sunny areas with good drainage, and watering is required only with prolonged drought.
A winter-hardy species from Eastern Siberia - iris (pardantopsis) forked with pale purple flowers blooms in early July.
Winter-hardy species from Eastern Siberia - Iris (pardantopsis) forked
Garden hybrid of forked and domestic irises - Noris pardankand.
Garden hybrid of fork and home irises - pardankand Noris
Iris Russian is a winter-hardy undersized species with narrow leaves and blue-blue flowers from Siberia and Eastern Europe. It blooms early, in May.
Iris Russian - winter-hardy undersized species with narrow leaves
Iris cereal is a thermophilic narrow-leaved species with blue-violet flowers from southern Europe.
Iris cereal - thermophilic narrow-leaved species
Irises spuria are a group of drought-resistant varieties with a varied color of flowers obtained from heat-loving southern species. Experienced florists can grow them in the Moscow region, although they are more suitable for the southern regions. They bloom in July, later than other irises.
Irises spuria are drought-resistant and thermophilic
The fake iris from the spuria group has blue-purple flowers.
Iris fake from the spuria group has blue-purple flowers
Salt-loving iris from the spuria group has yellow flowers.
Salt-loving iris from the spuria group has yellow flowers
Bearded irises are the most popular and numerous group of varieties with flowers of the most varied colors. Tall, bearded irises originate from the Germanic iris with blue-violet flowers.
German iris - the ancestor of tall varieties of bearded irises
Wabash is a very hardy and winter-hardy old variety with contrasting flowers: the upper petals are white, the lower ones are dark purple.
Wabash is a very hardy and winter-hardy old variety with contrasting white and purple flowers
Babeling Brook is a reliable variety with solid, pale blue flowers.
Babeling Brook is a reliable variety with solid pale blue flowers
Stepping Out has white petals with a contrasting blue-violet border.
Stepping Out has white petals with a contrasting blue-violet border.
Feuervogel is a very winter-hardy and unpretentious old variety. The upper petals are light brownish-lilac, the lower ones are dark maroon-brown.
Feuervogel is a very winter-hardy and unpretentious old variety of brownish-lilac tones
Millennium Falcon is a variety with striped white and purple petals.
Millennium Falcon - variety with striped white and purple petals
Dwarf iris pumila (low iris) is the ancestor of early low-growing varieties of bearded irises that bloom in May.
Dwarf iris pumila - the ancestor of early undersized varieties of bearded irises
The yellow form of the iris, the pumila, is found in gardens and in the wild.
The yellow form of the iris pumila is found in gardens and in the wild.
Ringer is an unusual variety of dwarf iris that has pale yellow petals with a brown border.
Ringer is an unusual variety of dwarf iris with pale yellow petals with a brown border
Cats Eye (Cat's Eye) is a dwarf iris variety with burgundy red flowers.
Cats Eye (Cat's Eye) - a variety of dwarf iris with burgundy red flowers
Cocoa Pink is a pale pink variety of dwarf iris with a contrasting blue beard.
Cocoa Pink - a pale pink variety of dwarf iris with a contrasting blue beard
The group of bulbous irises includes iridodictiums, xyphia and juno.
Dwarf bulbous irises (iridodictiums) bloom first, at the same time as the snow melts.
Iris (iridodictium) reticulated is one of the most common and hardy species, it has many varieties with blue or purple petals.
Iridodictium reticulated - one of the most common and hardy species
Iris (iridodictium) Dunford with bright yellow flowers in the damp climate of the middle lane lives only 2-3 years.
Iridodictium Dunford with bright yellow flowers is beautiful but short-lived
Vinogradov's iris (iridodictium) is a hardy species with pale yellow flowers.
Iridodictium Vinogradov - hardy species with pale yellow flowers
Tall bulbous irises (xyphyums) bloom in June.
English bulbous irises (varieties of xyphyum broadleaf) with blue-blue and blue-violet flowers are the most frost-hardy and winter well even in the Leningrad region.
English bulbous irises are the most hardy
Spanish bulbous irises (varieties of xyphyums and Lusitania) with yellow and purple petals winter only in subtropical regions.
Spanish bulbous irises winter only in the subtropics
Dutch bulbous irises (hybrids of common and Tangier xyphyums) are white, yellow, lilac, purple. They are often used for forcing, but they winter outdoors only in the southern regions.
Dutch bulbous irises are often used for forcing
Juno is a special group of bulbous irises of Caucasian and Central Asian origin. They grow well in southern areas with long, hot and dry summers. Juno Bukhara (Bukhara iris) with white-yellow flowers is one of the most hardy species of this type in culture.
Juno Bukhara (Bukhara iris) - the most hardy species
In my garden near Kazan they winter without shelter and every year Siberian irises, marsh irises, the natural form of Japanese iris and several bearded varieties of different heights - from dwarf to tall, including Wabash, Babeling Brook and Feuervogel - bloom every year.
The endless variety of irises attracts experienced collectors, and their ease of care allows even novice gardeners to grow these luxurious flowers.
I really like to experiment with flowers, seeds and see what grows out of what you plant. When ordering Fanelopsis orchid seeds on Aliexpress, I did not know very much about this plant (which is a pity), otherwise I would have seriously thought before making an order.
Unfortunately, there is no photo of the seeds, since after receiving it, I immediately planted all of them (this was in March). In appearance, the seeds are large, although on sites for florists everywhere it is written that orchid seeds are like dust, it is very difficult to grow this fastidious plant from them at home. But, what the hell is not joking, I took a chance. I planted it in a transparent tray of cakes, in a special soil for orchids (in the composition of peat, sphagnum, pine bark and needles, charcoal and biohumus). I planted them at a depth of about 0.5 cm, watered them, covered them with a film on top and waited. Days, weeks passed, periodically opening the lid and watering, I hoped to see the shoots, but after waiting 2 weeks I was completely desperate to see anything. I opened the lid and didn't close it again. Two weeks later, I discovered that one seed literally lies on the surface of the ground and sprouts are creeping out of it! Fortunately, there was no limit, finally I waited! Most likely, it was not worth planting them deep. The plant grew relatively quickly, in my opinion, as it grew, I transplanted the sprout into a larger vessel, the orchid took root 2.5 months after germination. Now at the moment (09/01/2015, 4 months have passed since germination) this plant looks like this
I am in no hurry to call this plant an orchid, because at the moment it does not quite look like Fanelopsis, but it is very interesting to see what will eventually grow out of this. As you can see in the photo, the leaves of the flower grow from one another, like a fan.
These seeds are much smaller than those that I ordered the first time, 4 times less for sure! They planted the same dishes in June, in the same soil, but did not cover them with a lid. These seeds sprouted much faster, in about 1.5 weeks, the sprouts began to climb through the soil, striving for light. As soon as the leaves reached 6-7 cm in length, I immediately transplanted them.
Since they did not yet have roots, the leaves grew from a seed, I did not plant it deeply. And now, they grow, in appearance the same as what they planted in the spring, it is not entirely clear why such different seeds.
I recommend these seeds to those who like to experiment, for the sake of interest you can plant, but if you are aiming at a specific result - to grow a real orchid from seeds (after all, the doubt creeps in that these orchids are not real), then you should not waste time on Chinese seeds.
... Today, 09/03/2015 I found that the large plant had 2 more sprouts crawled out of the base.
This I certainly did not expect at all! They will grow up a little, probably, they will need to be seated.
... 09/15/2015 I decided to plant the sprouts. In addition, there were not 2, but 3 of them!
The extreme leaves, which are located closest to the sprouts, first turned yellow, and then completely dried up:
If you have chosen the right varieties, spent the cooling period and forcing itself, the losses due to substandard should not exceed 5%. If this figure is higher, it's time to analyze the errors.
Deviation from the established regime at any of the stages of forcing negatively affects the quality of flowering plants, and a gross violation leads to damage and death of flower rudiments in the bulbs.
1. Violation of the cooling period, temperature fluctuations leads to the formation of deformed flowers or a complete lack of flowering.
2. If the cooling period is insufficient, plants develop short stems and the formation of "blind buds" is possible, i. e. death of flowers. This often happens when trying to forcing late varieties in January-February. The correct selection of varieties is very important in this case.
It has been experimentally established that cooling at +9 0 С increases the stem height by 13 cm. A short cooling period (2-6 weeks) at +5 0 С leads to a large number of non-flowering plants, a slowdown in stem growth during the flowering period and discoloration of flowers.
3. Cooling period too long stimulates growth processes and is accompanied by lengthening and a decrease in the strength of the stem.
4. Temperature rise during the cooling period. Interrupting the cooling period for 3 weeks can cause the death of all flowers (“blind buds”).
An increase in temperature during the cooling period to +15, +20, +25 0 С for 1, 2, 3 weeks delays flowering by 3 - 15 days.
5. Lack of control over the temperature during the cooling period. When cooling is carried out in the basement, and not in special chambers, due to temperature fluctuations in the open air, the temperature may not drop from December 15 to + 2 + 3 0 С. This results in poor plant quality and inability to plan flowering times. With this cooling method, varieties should be used for which the cooling period does not exceed 13-16 weeks.
6. Temperature rise during distillation up to + 24 + 26 0 FROM causes damage to the tepals and deterioration of the quality of flowers. Temperatures above +20 0 С can cause topping - stem fragility. A watery constriction appears on the stem and the flower hangs as if broken.
7. Use of defective planting material, some diseases, as well as violation of the temperature regime, contribute to the formation of "blind" buds.
In the presence of the sick fusariz bulbs that actively emit ethylene, all plants in the box form curved, thickened and deformed roots and do not bloom. The negative effect of ethylene is associated with the temperature regime: at + 5 + 9 0 С the activity of the causative agent of fusarium is low and little ethylene is released, but at + 20 + 23 0 С the disease progresses and the gas is released intensively. Therefore, it is not recommended to set the temperature above + 15 + 20 0 C during the active growing season. Sick plants can be distinguished by stunted growth, deformations, and an unpleasant sweetish smell of decay. Such plants must be removed along with roots and a clod of earth. Waterlogging, stagnant water contribute to the development of the disease and its spread to neighboring specimens.
Ethylene, along with mites, also causes heart rot: the perianth does not develop under the influence of gas, and the stamens are exposed (open arrows are formed). Ticks gain free access to the flower and infect the stamens, which leads to the disease.
8. Lack of calcium. It is observed during the period of active vegetation of plants: at the beginning of flowering or later in the form of drooping of peduncles, topping. For prophylaxis, it is recommended to water tulips in the ground during the period of growing bulbs for distillation with a 1.5% solution of calcium nitrate. Calcium nitrate can be applied both before planting for distillation, and during the period of distillation itself (0.2% solution).
9. Insufficient rooting (too low temperature during the cooling period, damage to the bottom of the bulb, etc.) causes a violation of the pigmentation of flowers - uneven color, pale tops of the petals.
10. Overgrown plants at the time of the addition, they acquire similar violations.
Thus, the right variety selection, healthy planting material and the correct cooling and attachment regimes are of decisive importance in forcing.
The ability to collect seeds has long been passed down from generation to generation. If the chain is broken in your family, read these tips.
The easiest way is to harvest the seeds of free-pollinated plants. The reason is that these plants usually look the same as their "parents". Seeds of hybrids of such "children" as their "parents" usually do not give.
Most seeds are found in wilted flowers. They can be found in pods, capsules, heads, and fruits. The seeds differ in appearance: some are very small, just like dust, others - like those of purple bindweed - almost the size of your fingernail.
Regardless of the size or location of the seeds, the main thing is that they are ripe. Just pick them up before they hit the ground! Most flower seeds are harvested after the flowers have dried on the plant. The seeds of fruits and vegetables are usually harvested with ripe fruits. Pick and cleanse the seeds from the fruit for several days. Spread them out in a dry, warm place to dry.
Most perennials can be planted in the fall. All you need is well-drained, fluffy soil. After planting seeds, water, cover with mulch and wait for sprouts in spring.
The seeds of most annuals are best kept all winter and planted in spring. They are planted directly in open ground, or transferred as indoor-grown seedlings.
Perennials, the seeds of which are easiest to collect:
Store fully dried seeds in a cool, dry place in signed envelopes, jars / jars, or homemade pockets. To be sure, we recommend that you sign them and put small notes about their favorite growing conditions (for example: "maximum sun + wet soil", yes, and any other information that you need during planting time. Note: if the seeds are stored correctly, most of them can be planted in 3-4 years!
Marigolds / marigolds
Purple bindweed (Morning Glory)
Wait for the seeds to dry and the pods begin to open.
Wait for the cucumber to ripen. Then squeeze the pulp with seeds into a container, pour a little water and leave the pulp to ferment for two to four days at room temperature, stir from time to time. Dead seeds will float - remove them. When the good seeds have sunk to the bottom, pour out the pulp. Repeat the process if the seeds are not completely clear yet. Now spread the seeds to dry.
The seeds are ready when the melon is ripe. Just take them out and rinse with water. Dry in a warm place.
Wait for the seeds to ripen and the pods begin to open.
Pepper seeds are harvested when the fruit is fully ripe (fruits of most types of peppers turn red and begin to dry out). Remove the seeds from the shriveled fruit and let them dry in a warm, dry place.
Wait for the tomato to ripen. Then squeeze the pulp with seeds into a container, pour a little water and leave the pulp to ferment for two to four days at room temperature, stir from time to time. Dead seeds will float - remove them. When the good seeds have sunk to the bottom, pour out the pulp. Repeat the process if the seeds are not completely clear yet. Now spread out the seeds to dry.
By Megan Mcconnell Hughes
Especially for the Internet portal "Your Garden"
If you notice an error, select the required text and press Ctrl + Enter to inform the editors about it
There are no comments yet, you can add your comment.
For this you need to register or log in.
1. Sowing of seeds was carried out (with rare exceptions) in the period from late February to mid-March 2004
2. The condition of the seedlings: from small seedlings in a bowl, to those laid out in pots.
Some of the plants are already fully formed, and balsams and salvia are blooming.
3. The number of ascended (grown, pah-pah. -)) specimens of a plant of the same name - from several pieces to several dozen.
4. The names of plants are taken from the price lists of suppliers, so they may sometimes (especially in terms of the variety) not carry any semantic meaning. -)