Roses cuttings rules

A rose garden from your seedlings

Rooted stalk of hybrid tea rose
first year of cuttings in the greenhouse

There are many ways cuttings of roses... But they are all very laborious, and there is no one hundred percent guarantee that the cuttings will take root. Roses are usually cut in mid-July.

Such roses do not form powerful roots by winter and very often freeze out in the very first winter. I quite accidentally learned to cut roses with one hundred percent survival rate and without much difficulty.

Cutting climbing roses

Shelter with roses we shoot in April, when temperatures are above zero. Before tying the rose to the support, we cut out the extra shoots so as not to overload the plant. On each climbing rose plant, we leave no more than seven shoots. We shorten each shoot by 1/3. The lateral branches of this shoot are also shortened by a third.

It is a pity to throw away the branches that remain after pruning, and I decided to try to root them. In the first year, she rooted branches with dormant buds. And in one year, the buds were with the first leaves that had already hatched. I tried to root them too. It turned out that they rooted much faster, and not a single cuttings died.

Rooting cuttings in the greenhouse (made of cellular polycarbonate, which cannot be disassembled for the winter). It is better to take cuttings not thick, but thin - they take root better. The distance between plants is 30 cm (not less) - it is more convenient then to dig out rooted and grown plants.

I leave 5-6 buds on the handle. Under the lower kidney, I make an oblique cut with a sharp knife. Along the edge of the bed, so as not to interfere with other plants, I dig small holes. In each I put two tablespoons of river sand, water it with HB 101 solution (plant growth stimulator) - 2 drops per 1 liter of water. Making a hole in the sand. I put a stalk there, so that the two lower buds are in the sand. Sprinkle with sand, water with the same solution. I put on a five-liter plastic bottle without a bottom (the lid should be on top). I do not spray the plant. There is enough moisture there.

The stalk planted this spring
rooted thoroughly by June

Once a week I water the cuttings with HB 101 solution. Cuttings root very quickly. An indicator that they have taken root is the rapid growth of the shoots. As soon as the shoots grow and reach the walls of the bottle, I unscrew and remove the cap from it.

For one week, the sprouts become accustomed to the surrounding air. After a week, I raise the lower part of the bottle (I put a pebble under its edge). And after two weeks I remove the bottle altogether. From that moment on, once a week I feed the plants with a manure solution or liquid fertilizer for roses.

In the first half of July, plants reach a height of 40-50 cm - this is the time for planting roses from a greenhouse. It is not worth keeping them in a greenhouse longer, since their roots go deep into the soil, and then they can be damaged during transplantation, and the plant will take root for a long time in a new place.

I transplant roses in cloudy weather, in the evening, to a place prepared in advance. To do this, I dig a hole 50x50 cm (as much as possible). When digging a hole, I fold the top layer of soil (onto the bayonet of a shovel) to one side, and the bottom layer of soil to the other side. I put on the bottom of the pit rotted manure (can be fresh, since the plant will not use it this year), compost, superphosphate and soil from the top layer of the pit. I mix everything well.

All the same goes to the upper part of the pit (only rotted manure!) And the soil from the lower layer. I add fertilizer there. AVA station wagon... I mix everything. I water with the solution "Baikal EM 1" - 100 ml per 10 liters of water. The landing site is ready. It is advisable to do this 2-3 weeks before replanting roses in order to have time to water the soil several times with a solution of "Baikal EM 1", since on top is the soil removed from the bottom layer of the pit, and it is not enriched with beneficial bacteria.

Before planting a rose from a greenhouse to a prepared place, I dig a hole there, according to the size of a seedling. It is better to tie the branches of the rose in several places along the entire length so that they do not scratch or interfere. In order not to damage the roots of the rose and plant a plant with an earthen clod, I do this: I cut off the bottom and top of a plastic bottle (5-6 liters). Better to have smooth rather than grooved sides.

It turns out a plastic cylinder. I carefully put this cylinder on the plant so as not to damage the long branches of the rose and start pressing it into the ground. Since the material from which the bottle is made is very thin, so as not to spoil it when pressed, I shovel the earth outside the cylinder with a garden shovel. The cylinder must be fully deepened. Then I dig under the cylinder with a garden shovel and take it out. I put the shovel on thick plastic and take it out. I carry the cylinder with the plant to the prepared hole.

This wonderful flower of hybrid tea rose
also bloomed on the cuttings of the first year of cuttings

I place the cylinder in the hole and carefully pull out the polyethylene support. I fill the cylinder of the bottle with earth to the very side. Then, very carefully, with rotational movements, I remove the bottle cylinder from the pit. If it is grooved, it will be more difficult to do.

I water the plant with Energena solution (1 bottle of 10 ml per 10 liters of water). I tie each lash of roses to a support and close it with a covering material. I do this in order to protect the rose from direct sunlight, to which she is not yet accustomed (in the greenhouse she was under the double cover of the greenhouse and the bottle). I water the rose as the soil dries up, and once a week - always with HB 101 solution or Energen.

After three weeks (preferably in cloudy weather) I remove the covering material from the plant. Then, in front of the plant, from the sunny side, I pull the same covering material onto the supports. As a result, my rose is in the air, and the sun does not shine on it.

In the first half of August, I completely remove the covering material. I continue to water the plant with HB 101 solution or "Krezacin" once every two weeks until the end of August. I no longer carry out fertilizing with fertilizers in August. The shoots should not grow, but ripen and prepare for winter. I cover seedlings for the winter like all roses.

Cutting other roses

By the roses floribunda, ground cover, hybrid tea, bush we cut out in spring only shoots damaged after winter. I cut cuttings from these roses from branches intact by frost. You need to take the thinnest branches. They take root better and faster.

The rooting process is the same as for climbing roses. The difference is that I plant hybrid tea roses and floribunda roses from the greenhouse only in the third year. They are more capricious, and their roots take longer to grow. If they are planted in the very first year, they will die during the winter, since the roots are still short, in winter they freeze out. Even hilling and covering the plant does not help.

Cutting roses from a presented bouquet

Cutting and hybrid tea roses, which are presented in bouquets for the holidays. Only this process is lengthy. If the donated flowers were in the store for a long time, and aspirin or other drugs were added to the water there so that the rose lasted a long time until it was bought, then such cuttings die on the fifth day. The lower part of the plant turns black.

It is better to throw out such a rose right away - there will be no sense from it. And do not cut a rose with a slightly wrinkled stem - it will also die in the near future. The desired stem of the rose should be dark green, smooth, buds should be visible in the axils of the leaves, and the leaves should be dark green. The best flowers for cuttings are those presented on March 8th. They did not have time to lie on the counter, and in spring the plants take root better.

This beauty was in a gift bouquet last year in June,
and a year later she gives flowers herself

I cut a flower from such a rose on a short "leg" and put it in the water separately. The remaining branch for the prevention of pests is mine under warm water with laundry soap. At the bottom, I make an oblique cut with a very sharp knife or razor. I put the handle in a glass. I put on a transparent plastic bag on top. I tie the bag so that there is a small hole for air and greenhouse conditions for the plant are not created. I put the handle under the fluorescent lamp.

Old leaves of the plant may crumble - this is normal. The main thing is to remove them from the package in time. After a while, sprouts will appear from the dormant buds. The leaves on such sprouts are first reddish, then they turn light yellow, then light green. When the leaves on the shoot turn dark green (like the parent leaf), the shoot is ready for grafting.

With a razor, I cut off such a shoot-cutting from the stem and put it in a dark-colored medicine bottle (in a dark container, the roots will appear faster). I tried to cut a stalk with a heel - a piece of the mother plant, but noticed that such cuttings take longer to take root. I put on a small plastic bag on top and do not tie it, but throw it on. I put the handle under the fluorescent lamp. A little HB 101 ready-made solution can be added to the water.

After about one and a half to two months, a light-colored thickening forms at the end of the cutting. This is a callus formed, on which roots will subsequently appear. When the roots appear (at least 1 cm), I plant the cutting in a pot. I put a plastic bag on top, but do not tie it. After 2-3 weeks I remove the package. Once a week I water the plant with HB 101 or Krezacin.

In the first half of June, I plant a plant with a clod of earth in a greenhouse. I do not cover anything from above. I feed the plant in the same way as other cuttings of roses planted in spring. If a rose has buds, then I cut them off, as it should take root well before winter. Sometimes I really want to look at a flower. Therefore, I let it bloom and immediately cut it off.

Before frosts (late autumn) I spud a rose dry peat, I cover with spruce branches, I fall asleep with sawdust, and put the film on top, without pressing it to the ground, so that the air gets inside. When frost settles, I put a small layer of snow on top of the film. I take off the shelter at the end of March, when positive temperatures are established outside. A rooted stalk grows in a greenhouse for three years.

Several cuttings are obtained from one donated flower. Sometimes the mother plant (which was a flower) also develops callus and roots. But such a plant should not be planted. It takes a very long time to take root and falls out in the first winter. All his power will be directed to the growth of lateral shoots and the formation of buds on them, and not to rooting. Therefore, it is best to root cuttings that have grown from the buds of this shoot.

And this is how a stalk of a rooted hybrid tea looks like,
which I brought from Crimea, in the fifth year of his life

You can root cuttings from flowers donated in the fall, if their buds themselves in a bouquet have started to grow. I was presented with a white rose in October, which already had sprouts. I did everything in the same way as described above, but added a ready-made solution of HB 101 to the water. Throughout the winter, the stalk stood under a fluorescent lamp. The leaves on the lateral shoots did not darken for a long time. I cut one stalk at the beginning of January. The rest will be in mid-March. The callus had already formed in the first cutting by the beginning of March.

Of course, grafted roses are more powerful and bloom profusely in the first year. But you have to constantly monitor them so that the wild does not grow. A rooted rose, if its stems freeze or grow cold during the winter (as happened with me after the winter of 2010), quickly recovers, and it does not have wild growth. By the way, the flowers of a self-rooted rose are much brighter than those of its “parent”, which was grown in a greenhouse, and not in the sun under the open sky.

Roses with dark flowers - red, burgundy, dark pink - take root best. Roses with light-colored flowers - white, yellow, light orange - take root worst of all. But in the summer of 2010, my roses with light flowers rooted surprisingly well and quickly. Perhaps they had enough sunlight.

Of course, such grafting is a long process. But if you were presented with a bouquet of roses - why not try to root them? Moreover, in this way you will have the memory of the person who gave them.

Read also:
- Growing a rose
- Selection of varieties and planting of roses
- Types and rules for pruning roses
- Types of roses, their features, the choice of planting material
- Mallow - stock-rose: varieties, reproduction and cultivation
- Growing indoor roses, preparing indoor roses for winter
- Miniature and indoor roses
- Pruning roses

Olga Rubtsova, gardener,
Vsevolozhsky district of the Leningrad region

Photo by the author

Step-by-step instructions for breeding

Early morning is the most favorable time for harvesting rose cuttingsas the bushes are filled with moisture. A sharp pruner or knife is treated with medical alcohol, a solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate and the selected branches are divided into cuttings 12-15 cm long. They are cut from the middle part of the stem with 3-4 healthy buds. Leaves are completely removed or cut by 1/3 to retain more moisture. The thorns also break off gently.

reference... Fatty green stems are not suitable for propagation of roses by cuttings in summer. They can be recognized by the absence of buds.

After cutting, the material is soaked in a solution of "Epin", "Zircon", "Kornevin" or "Heteroauxin" to stimulate root growth. After such treatment, they appear in 2 weeks, with ordinary soaking in water - in a month. To stimulate root formation, a folk recipe is used: 20 drops of aloe juice or 1 tsp. honey in 250 ml of water.

Site preparation for planting

Before you start planting rooted cuttings, you need to select a suitable site and prepare the soil on it. Fertile soil and a shaded place are suitable for planting roses.... Young plants must receive all the necessary trace elements for normal development and be protected from the scorching sun. Florists recommend planting cuttings in the shade of trees or tall bushes.

The soil is loosened, weeds are removed, sprinkled with sod-humus soil (layer height - 10 cm), 3-5 cm of soil mixtures from river sand and peat are placed on top in a ratio of 1: 1.

Important! Compost and fresh manure are not used when planting cuttings. Such feeding is suitable for adult plants, and young plants can rot.

The shoots are planted to a depth of 1.5-2 cm... Planting too deep will slow down rooting. The cuttings are covered with plastic bottles or glass jars to create a greenhouse effect. The plot with seedlings is kept moist - throughout the summer, the bushes are watered between the shelters.

Rooting methods for cuttings

Gardeners use several methods of rooting rose cuttings: in water, soil, potato tubers, plastic bag, burrito and Trannois method.

In water

Cuttings 1-2 pcs. put in transparent plastic or glass glasses or 200 ml jars... 2-3 cm of water are poured into containers and any growth stimulant is added. The container is placed on a light windowsill, but not in direct sunlight. Water is added as it evaporates. After the roots appear, the cuttings are planted in pots filled with ready-made soil mixture for roses. This method of rooting is considered the most laborious and has a minimal yield of seedlings.

In the ground

A small pot with a diameter of 8-10 cm is filled with soil for roses, make a 4 cm depression in the center, pour scalded vermiculite or sand into it to prevent root decay.

The tip of the cutting is dipped into a dry growth stimulator, planted in the ground and covered with a cut-bottom plastic bottle.The lid from the cap is periodically removed and water is poured into the pot. The opening of the apical bud and young leaves indicates successful rooting of the cuttings. Now the shelter can be removed and the seedlings can be sprayed with a spray gun 2-3 times a day. The container is changed as the root system grows.

In potatoes

Rooting cuttings in potatoes is considered one of the most effective... The starch and nutrients in the tubers stimulate root growth. Medium-sized potatoes are suitable without rot and traces of infection. The tubers are soaked in a solution of "Strobi", "Quadris", "Horus", "Delan", "Acrobat" or "Ditan" to choose from, then remove all eyes.

Sections of cuttings are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, then immersed in aloe juice for 12 hours for better hydration and keeping the slices fresh. Growth stimulants can be used instead of aloe.

Holes are cut in the tubers with a sharp knife.... There is one cutting for each tuber. The upper section is sealed with paraffin.

The pots are filled with nutritious soil, make a depression and place potatoes with a shank in it. Instead of pots, you can take thick black bags and hang them on the window. After 2-3 weeks, the kidneys will appear. Cuttings are watered every 2-3 days with warm water, sugar is added to it once a week (1 tbsp. L. Per 250 ml of water) to nourish the rose with carbohydrates.

In the package

Dense plastic bags are filled with soil for roses or mossafter soaking it in water with aloe juice in a ratio of 9: 1. The cuttings are buried in the substrate with a lower cut, then the bag is inflated, tied and hung on the window. A greenhouse effect is created inside the package, which promotes the growth of the root system.

Burrito method

The burrito method was invented by gardeners. The planting material is wrapped in damp newspaper or paper, then put in a black tight bag and sent to a warm and dark place. Cuttings are periodically checked and ventilated to prevent decay. If necessary, the wrapper is moistened with water. The method is highly efficient. If you follow all the rules, the roots will appear in 2 weeks even without soaking in growth stimulants.

Trannois way

Rooting rose cuttings using the Trannois method provides for obtaining the maximum amount of starch from the leaves... Cuttings are harvested after the bushes have faded. Small leaves and limp buds are cut from the selected stems. The appearance of new buds at the bottom of the stems indicates that the plant is ready to continue growing. Cuttings are cut 20 cm long and planted in the garden next to a rose bush in holes of 5-7 pcs. at an angle of 45 °. The cuttings are covered with plastic containers or polyethylene. The soil is periodically watered with warm water and loosened, providing oxygen access to the root system.

Autumn cuttings of roses - advantages and terms

If we compare grafting with grafting, then the first has a larger list of advantages:

  • Flowers that are grown this way do not form a wild root cavity, so they will need serious maintenance.
  • Flowers from cuttings are highly resistant to winter weather conditions. If their upper part is destroyed by frost, the plant will recover from dormant buds.
  • To acquire planting material, you just need to take a stem from a flower from a gift bouquet.

Reproduction and pruning are carried out in the same period - in late October and early November. If you are thinking about this method of plant propagation, you need to find out which varieties are suitable for this:

  • All varieties of polyanthus and miniature roses
  • Almost all varieties of semi-climbing roses
  • Climbing roses from the rambler group (Rambler)
  • Excelsa roses
  • Large-flowered variety Flammentanz
  • Iceberg and Rosalind of the Floribunda group
  • Hybrid tea (do not confuse with tea) roses take root in the shortest possible time, but in the future their root system is not developing so actively. That is why it is recommended to vaccinate them.

As for the remontant and park varieties, their propagation by cuttings is a complex process, which only an experienced florist can master.

The best ways to root rose cuttings: how to properly propagate a rose by cuttings

Summer rose cuttings

To do this, you need to cut the cuttings at dawn or late at night. You should choose mature shoots: faded or preparing for flowering. It is easy to determine the maturity of the cutting - thorns should break off on the stem. Next, they take a sharp disinfected instrument and cut the stems of the rose into cuttings ranging in size from twelve to fifteen centimeters with oblique cuts. They must have 2-3 leaves and 2-3 buds, without flowers. In order for the cuttings to take root well, a solution of heteroauxin or root is used. There is also a popular method for preparing a solution for rooting. In order to make it, you need to take 0.5 teaspoon of honey in one glass of water, while mixing the resulting solution with juicy leaves.

Rose cuttings can be planted directly in the garden, after preparing the soil for them. For this, sand and soil rich in nutrients are mixed. The cuttings must be stuck into the ground at an angle of 45 degrees, fertilized with potassium permanganate, then water the seedlings with water and cover with a glass jar. After a while, the banks can be removed, but only for a short period. A month later, the cuttings of the rose will take root. The first shoots will appear on them, which by the end of summer will reach 30-40 cm. In autumn, it is better to keep roses in a pot in a cool place.

Planting rose cuttings in potatoes

For germinating rose cuttings, such an unusual method will also do. To do this, you need to take cuttings 20 cm long, after removing the thorns and leaves. Next, you should take young potatoes with the eyes removed. In a well-lit area where there is usually no wind, a 15-centimeter deep trench is dug and covered with a 5-centimeter layer of sand. Cuttings stuck in potatoes are planted at a distance of 15 cm from each other. As in the previous method, the cuttings are covered with glass jars. Potatoes are a good choice for rose cuttings. He gives him the necessary moisture and supplies the necessary substances - carbohydrates and starch. All the nutrients are contained in the potato, so there is no need to fertilize the rose additionally. These roses need regular watering. Once every 5 days, you need to fertilize the cuttings with "sugar water". To do this, dilute 2 teaspoons per glass of water. After 2 weeks, you can gradually start removing the cans. After another couple of weeks, they are removed completely. This technique is simple and can be done even by novice gardeners.

Rooting cuttings in a bag

Rose cuttings can also be rooted in a bag. To do this, put sterile soil in a plastic bag and fertilize it with sphagnum (a type of moss). Sphagnum must be soaked in aloe juice in a ratio of 1: 9 (1 - juice, 9 - water). The bag with the cuttings placed in it is tied and hung out on the street. The moisture in the bag stimulates the rooting of rose cuttings. A month later, you can already see the roots.

Rooting roses from a bouquet

Sometimes you really don't want to part with a beautiful and pleasant gift, so the variety of roses you like can be rooted. An important point: only domestic roses can be taken for propagation. Foreign roses are treated with special substances before transportation, so these flowers can no longer give roots. Only fresh roses with woody stems are suitable for rooting. It is necessary to take the most developed part of the flower with large, viable buds. All leaves, buds, thorns and flowers must be removed from the cuttings. The stalk is cut to a length of fifteen to thirty centimeters, after which it is placed in a vase with settled water. The water must be changed until the roots grow on the cuttings. Then they are transplanted either into open ground, or into a pot or jar. The choice here is influenced by the current season.

What should be taken into account in such a method? First, do not pour too much water into the vase, otherwise the cuttings will die from rotting. Then there will be little oxygen at the bottom of the vase, and this is detrimental to the plants. Do not put too many cuttings in one vase, as they will be very cramped. Young shoots are usually taken for cuttings, because the older the plant, the less chance it will take root. It is better to take cuttings from the side branches of the rose. There is also an opinion that it is worth choosing long shoots. Cuttings with leaves do not need to be kept in the dark, as the leaves need light.

Planting roses for the winter

Sometimes it becomes necessary to plant roses in the cold season. For example, when you really want to root a rare variety of flowers from a bouquet presented in autumn. This method will come in handy if you need to keep the roses alive until spring. In this case, a rose stalk is planted in open ground and a shelter is made on top so that the flower does not freeze. In the warm season, the rose is transplanted to a permanent place.

Alternative ways to grow rose seedlings from cuttings

You can grow the queen of flowers at home in other, very original ways. For example, the method of rooting pink shoots in a potato tuber is popular.

Growing cuttings of roses in potatoes

All of the above methods have their drawbacks. In a film shelter, in damp earth or in water, decay processes can begin. If the ground dries up, the plants will die from lack of moisture. Cunning flower growers came up with the idea of ​​growing cuttings of roses in potatoes, where they perfectly endure the winter, avoiding these troubles. To do this, you need to take a large tuber and clean it completely from the eyes. This must be done, otherwise he will begin to give strength to his own growth. Then a stalk is stuck into the tuber to about the middle of the potato, after which the structure is buried in the ground by 5-6 cm. The root crop serves as additional food for the rose and provides the necessary moisture. And in the spring, the rose will be ready for planting in a permanent place.

In a plastic bag

The point of the method is to create a high-moisture environment with strong evaporation. The harvested moss (can be replaced with peat) is well moistened with Kornevin or another similar root development stimulant, and then twigs ready for germination are wrapped in it. Before sealing the bag, it is inflated. All this is packed into a durable plastic bag, which is placed in a well-lit, sunny place. Artificial fog forms inside, due to the high humidity of which the root system begins to develop very quickly in the cuttings.

Burrito Method

The name is borrowed from Mexican cuisine, which is the name for a rolled flatbread with a filling placed inside. Wet newspapers are used as a cake, inside which freshly cut pink shoots are placed. Newspapers are kept moist, but not wet, by spraying from a spray bottle. To create a greenhouse effect, burritos can be placed in a plastic bag or simply wrapped in plastic, but this is not required. Quite a simple method, however, giving a small percentage of the likelihood of success.

Correct cuts

It is necessary to make cuts that maximize rooting in a new place. Make sure the top is straight and at right angles. Do it directly above the kidney, stepping back only 0.5-1 cm from it.

The lower cut should be carried out at an angle of 45 degrees. The recommended distance from the lower bud is 1.5-2 cm. Remove the lower leaves and thorns. Use a well-sharpened knife for cutting, disinfect it with an alcohol solution before working.

Choose for harvesting only a healthy plant that does not have visible damage and signs of disease. Cuttings should not be made too long. It is better if 2-3 buds are located on such a segment. And for varieties of yellow roses, leave four.

Long ones can take root poorly, they take longer to root. The optimum shoot length is between 10 and 18 cm. Choose branches of medium thickness. Too young are still weak and will not have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. And those who are already 2-3 years old will adapt to new conditions for a long time.

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