Preparing the garden for cucumbers: mobile warm garden


Mobile beds allow you to grow a large crop of vegetables on a small plot of land. A variety of organic waste is used to form warm beds. Such beds do not need digging or other autumn preparation, and also do not require the introduction of mineral dressings.

Mobile warm beds are harvested in spring, and after harvesting they can also be easily “disassembled”. The organic content of the beds allows the soil to work at full strength and provide all the necessary nutrients to the vegetable plants.

Choosing a place and setting up a "mobile" garden for cucumbers

Crops such as cucumbers are very fond of sunlight and heat, so the plot of land should be illuminated for the maximum amount of time. The beds on the site must be arranged so that the sun's rays fall on the cucumber bushes from the side.

After choosing a place for a mobile bed, you need to take care of the materials that are needed to "build" the bed:

  • Black or transparent plastic wrap.
  • Thin branches of a small size, left after pruning trees and shrubs.
  • Any organic waste.
  • Land with a vegetable garden and river sand.
  • Wood ash.
  • Solution with effective microorganisms or humus.

The preparation of the garden should be started at least a month before planting the cucumber seedlings. The average width and height of a warm bed is about 30 centimeters. The length can be any, depending on the area of ​​the site. Small wooden pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the garden bed and at its corners to determine the boundaries.

Filling a warm bed begins with branches - this will be the first layer. The next will be the mulching layer, which has not rotted on other beds. If the amount is insufficient, then any plant waste (for example, last year's leaves, peelings of vegetables and fruits, and herbaceous plants) can be added. The topmost layer, about 3 centimeters thick, should be soil from the garden or sand.

In order for various microorganisms to actively start their work inside the garden, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions. For this, the bed is covered with a prepared film, which will retain moisture and heat. Under such conditions, organic waste will begin to actively decompose and create a nutrient medium necessary for a cucumber culture. But before covering, the bed is abundantly watered with an infusion of wood ash (for 10 liters of water - 1 glass of ash), and then also with a solution using EM preparations.

The film should not only cover the entire space of the garden bed, but also capture a little area around it. Such a cover will protect the cucumbers from the invasion of weeds. Thirty days will pass and the bed will be ready for planting seedlings, the film is removed.

Planting cucumbers in the garden, care and cultivation

A cucumber bed will become almost ideal if metal arcs pass over it, and the entire surface is covered with a special fibrous synthetic material (lutrasil), which will reliably protect plants from sudden cold snaps. With this "outfit", the bed is ready for planting seedlings around mid-May. In the absence of such a shelter, it is better to postpone the planting of cucumbers until early June.

Cucumbers in such a bed can be grown by seed or seedlings. The seeds must be soaked in water or a biostimulator a day before planting.

You need to start by cutting holes (5-6 centimeters long each) along the entire surface of the film at a distance of approximately 30 centimeters from each other. Two seedlings or 4-5 seeds are planted in each hole and immediately watered abundantly.

The ideal temperature regime for the growth and development of cucumber bushes is 28-30 degrees Celsius. To maintain this temperature at night, in cool or very hot weather, the beds should be covered. It protects vegetables not only from cold, but also from high temperatures.

You can protect seedlings from pests and various diseases with the help of wood ash. As soon as a second leaf appears on young plants, ash dusting can be carried out.

A warm bed under the film requires very little moisture, since evaporation hardly occurs. The first thirty days of watering are carried out directly into the cucumber holes, and after a month, it is enough to water the garden around the perimeter. This method of watering contributes to the development of the root system, as it forces the plants to independently seek a source of moisture. And with well-developed and strong roots, the normal development of the whole plant occurs, a large amount of ovary is formed.

Even such a "nutritious" bed requires additional fertilization. Cucumbers respond well to feeding. They are brought in by irrigation along the perimeter of the garden bed approximately 3-4 times a month (in July and August). The best fertilizer is a solution of water (10 liters) and compost (5 liters).

Early and medium-ripening cucumber varieties bear their first fruits at the end of June. If the beginning of summer turned out to be cool, then this period will be slightly postponed (at the beginning - mid-July).

An increase in the yield of cucumbers is possible with the correct use of metal arches over the beds. These supports help keep most of the cucumber vines above the surface. Such devices promote good penetration of air, light and heat to each plant.

Mobile bed after harvest

All the fruits are collected, the tops are removed from the garden - you can remove the film. Almost all the contents of the garden can be used for compost or to protect fruit trees. Branches of trees and shrubs can be burned, and wood ash is useful as a top dressing.

If the cucumber patch did not disappoint you this season, then try to repeat your luck next year. Only now use another plot of land.

Warm bed for cucumbers


Preparing the garden for cucumbers: mobile warm garden

Mobile beds allow you to grow a large crop of vegetables on a small plot of land. A variety of organic waste is used to form warm beds. Such beds do not need digging or other autumn preparation, and also do not require the introduction of mineral dressings.

Mobile warm beds are harvested in spring, and after harvesting they can also be easily “disassembled”. The organic content of the beds allows the soil to work at full strength and provide all the necessary nutrients to the vegetable plants.


Experienced growers know that cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and some other vegetables love warm soil. Therefore, they are usually planted in hotbeds and greenhouses. And if they are not there, then for the successful cultivation of these vegetables in the open field, it is best to prepare special beds, which themselves are heated by emitting heat - these are warm beds. That is why a warm bed allows you to plant seedlings 3-4 weeks earlier than usual, the plants on it grow strong and healthy, are practically not affected by late blight and other diseases, which ultimately contributes to a larger yield. And the basis of the principle of action of warm beds is the decomposition of organic matter, due to which heat is released and a large number of nutrients are formed.

To make a warm vegetable patch, you need to dig a trench 30-40 cm deep and at least 40 centimeters wide, and fold the extracted soil along its sides. This is usually done in the fall of the previous year or in the spring, a month before the seedlings are planted. Then we fill the trench with any available organic materials, using branches, last year's or fresh grass, hay, straw, weed stems, rotten vegetables and any organic waste from the table, old newspapers, sawdust, feathers, humus, etc. At the same time, organic materials, which slowly decays, we must put it to the very bottom of the trench (branches, thick stems of sunflower or corn, paper), then more easily decaying materials follow - waste and cleaning of vegetables, sawdust, grass, leaves. When laying organic matter, it is advisable to sprinkle it with a small amount of soil (up to 10% of the total volume).

Having finished filling the trench, it is advisable to fill it with humus or semi-rotten manure from above and 10-20 cm on top with a layer of fertile soil that appeared after digging a trench. But before backfilling with earth, organic matter must be watered abundantly with the hearth (or wait for a good rain), and then covered with a black film. Organic matter is placed in a warm bed in a layer 20-25 centimeters thick and it is also desirable to treat it with a biological product "Shining", as a result of which the organic matter quickly rotted, and the plants receive optimal nutrition and develop well. Within a month, this "layer cake" will be rotting, which is always accompanied by the release of heat.

Ready-made beds can turn out to be high (up to 20 cm above the soil level), so they should be protected with boards, slate or other available material, making boxes. And the level of the ground in them, as the organic matter grows, will gradually sink. In the spring, such a bed should be watered with warm water (preferably with a biological product such as "Shining") and covered with plastic wrap. You can also use a urea solution (1 tablespoon per bucket of water) or dilute some fresh cow dung in water. All this is done to start the process of "burning" organic matter in order to properly warm up the layer of earth on top of the garden bed. It is no longer necessary to dig up the soil before planting plants in it, but it is enough only to loosen the top layer with a rake. Overripe organic matter at this time will begin to emit not only elements useful for plants, but also heat, which will constantly warm up the soil.

When the night frosts pass, it will be possible to plant seedlings of vegetables in the bed under the film. In such soil, plants will quickly grow, and vegetables in a warm garden will not suffer from a sudden cold snap. A warm bed is perfect for tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, eggplants, pumpkin, sweet and hot peppers, melons and gourds. In the second year, it is best to plant onions or garlic in a warm garden bed, as well as root crops and green crops. Usually, a warm bed works well for an average of two, less often three years, depending on the amount and structure of organic matter in the bed, after which all the organic matter that is there completely decays. As a result, the land becomes fluffy and light, and the yield is high.

If desired, you can make warm pits with "heating" for one plant. The technology for their preparation is exactly the same. It is very convenient to make such holes for cucumbers and zucchini.

Remember that if warm beds are made every year, then in this case there is no need for a compost heap, since organic matter that has rotted during the season in a warm bed is compost. Therefore, before laying new organic matter, compost from a side warm bed (preferably two years old) is raked out, and most of it is scattered over the beds as mulch. A small part is stored for use in spring when sowing seeds, planting seedlings and seedlings in the ground. Large residues from the compost can be used for mulching perennials or laid for decay on the bottom of a new warm bed. The screening of such compost is a black fertile soil that can be used for growing seedlings, as well as for pouring into indoor flowers.


Which is better?

Horse manure begins to decompose at a temperature within eighty degrees, while the processes of decay occur much faster than in other species, and as a result, this fertilizer is the most loose in structure. As part of this type of organic fertilizer, the content of nutrients is much higher than that of cow dung. It can be used to quickly warm up any soil, which is very important for cucumbers, since they are a thermophilic crop.

Pig manure itself is liquid and contains an insufficient amount of potassium, which is why lime is added to it. Experienced gardeners are advised to apply this type of fertilizer to warm soil, mixed with horse manure.

Sheep manure has a high degree of dryness, but it rather slowly turns into a state of humus. To improve the useful characteristics, such fertilizer is placed in a pit, then spilled with slurry based on manure. In this state, manure decomposes faster and increases its thermal properties, which allows it to be introduced into the soil in spring when the ground is still poorly warmed up.


Cucumber bed

Experienced gardeners know that a cucumber garden is a more difficult way to grow a vegetable crop than a greenhouse environment. But in comparison with the closed ground, the cucumber garden provides ample opportunities for gardeners.

Cucumber planting rules

To plant cucumbers correctly, you should adhere to the following rules:

  • The site should be located away from flowing water bodies and streams.
  • The planting site should be prepared, make sure that drafts do not fall on the area where the culture grows.
  • Loosening of the soil and watering should be done regularly. This preparation will prevent the formation of a hard crust and prevent drying out.
  • It is necessary to prepare top dressing in advance. They should be carried out more frequently than indoors.
  • When picking cucumbers, it is advisable not to turn the lashes of the plant.
  • In the open field, weeding is more often carried out than in the greenhouse. But it is best to cover the beds with black film.

Any gardener knows that cucumbers respond well to the organic composition of the soil where they grow. That is why in the fall manure, chicken droppings, fresh grass, polycarbonate and branches are added to the soil at regular intervals.

Important! This makes the breast fertile and gives off heat as it decomposes.

To achieve high yields, it is necessary to prepare the planting material in advance. So that during the "sunburn" the roots do not suffer, it is necessary to water the plant abundantly after planting.

Varieties of beds

A warm do-it-yourself garden bed in spring for cucumbers is a great way to preserve culture. There are several options for creating a do-it-yourself cucumber garden. This list includes:

Warm bed

Hobby gardeners should know how to make warm cucumber beds in spring. They are made in two unusual ways: in a trench or on the surface.

Required materials and tools:

  • shovels of two types and a pitchfork
  • manure
  • fallen leaves and tops
  • branches of various thicknesses
  • sawdust
  • roots
  • bread
  • liquid slops
  • boards for the construction of trellis (mesh)
  • nails
  • a hammer.

To create a garden bed for a cucumber culture, in the fall, they dig a trench 2 bayonet deep with a shovel. The pit is three meters long and 1.5 m wide. Wood materials are laid out on the bottom - branches and logs. Next, make a grid of boards, resembling a box. Then spread the grass, dung heap and tops. At the top, 15 cm thick earth remains.

From above, the prepared bed is covered with foil and left until spring. Throughout the entire winter period, a certain process will take place inside, after which by spring the land will be ready for planting a vegetable crop. A warm bed will last a long time, usually 7 years for sure.

Note! It is even easier to make such a bed on the surface of the earth. To do this, all materials are stacked in one pile, as if ramming. Then it remains to cover it with earth. The soil layer should be equal to 20 cm. In the spring, cucumber seedlings or seeds are planted on the treated surface.

A warm bed can be used for several years in a row.

  • In the first year, the structure is saturated with nutrients, and the decomposition of organic matter generates heat. In such conditions, not only cucumbers, but also pumpkins and zucchini can grow.
  • By the second year, more food is placed in the soil, you can plant cucumbers and zucchini again in the same place. Tomatoes and cabbage can be planted as a variety.
  • By the third year, there are enough nutritional reserves for cabbage, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, beets, carrots.
  • Fourth year: planting peas and greens. There is no more nutritional reserve for anything if you do not additionally fertilize.

In the vacant space, you can re-lay a warm bed.

Vertical cucumber beds

For economical gardeners, there is an excellent option for creating a vertical bed. This method allows you to save space and get a plant without fear that pests can spoil the tops.

For work, you will need plastic or metal containers, or horse manure. Round barrels or buckets are installed in a permanent place. Then they should be filled with nutrients. In the second case, high round beds are made from manure (up to 1 meter in diameter).

Branches are strewn on the bottom. A pile of manure pours out from above. The topmost layer is soil (layer up to 20 cm). A peg up to 1.5 meters long is installed in the center. A string is attached to the top, and the lower ends are fixed at the edge of the bed with hooks. Cucumber bushes will grow skyward and twine twines.

Mobile beds

If the soil is poor, it doesn’t matter. For the growth of cucumbers, mobile beds will help. Small costs are spent on their construction. You don't even need to dig up the ground or make complex structures.

First of all, a place is selected. It can be on absolutely any piece of land. The branches are taken as a basis, which are laid out in a layer of 15 cm. Sprinkle with manure on top. If there is no manure heap, you can use leaves and tops. Sprinkle on top with a layer of 15 cm. Then it is necessary to water everything abundantly with manure infusion and cover with a black film. And seedlings are planted through small holes in the films.

Important! If the cucumbers grow in the soil, then the harvest will be late, and also fruiting may not be at all due to the damage of the plant by pests.

Cucumbers growing in barrels are constantly in need of watering and feeding. But there are also advantages of this method - the stability of the temperature regime and the absence of pests.

How to properly care for your culture

Proper care of the plant will allow you to get a rich harvest at the output. Care is not complicated, the main steps are as follows:

  • regular watering
  • frequent feeding
  • weed removal
  • loosening the soil
  • tying to supports.

Since the cucumber plant can dry out more than others, it must be watered abundantly. Plus, during a drought, the process of decomposition of organic matter will stop in the lower layers of the soil.

Watering can be done in any way:

  • from a watering can
  • from the hose
  • use drip irrigation.

When watering, you should avoid getting water on the leaves of the plant, otherwise they will turn yellow and wither. Along with watering once a week, plant feeding is carried out. For these purposes, organics and ash are excellent. In warm beds, the plant does not need constant feeding.

In cloudy weather, cucumbers are fed by spraying. This will require a urea solution. For 1 season, two such dressings are enough. When the loops begin to grow actively, they should be tied to supports. Some varieties are capable of forming tendrils, which allows the crop to climb independently. But they should be tied up with ribbons so that they do not accidentally break off.

Cucumber herb garden

  1. The first step is to dig a trench. It is necessary to monitor the width of the pit, it should be 1 m, and the length is chosen by eye.
  2. Next, you need grass. Any grass is suitable, it is advisable to collect it near the river. The collected grass should be placed in a prepared hole and tamped (preferably with your feet). This will keep the cucumbers from falling through. This is very important, because if it rains frequently in the summer, the cucumbers will fall into the hole and rot.
  3. Then you need to cook a composition of moldy bread and potato peels. The finished mixture is poured into the garden bed and spread over the surface directly while hot. In contact with the grass, fermentation begins. The whole process leads to the emergence of microorganisms, which are very beneficial for the growth of cucumbers.
  4. The bed is covered with dug earth and filled with a bucket of boiling water.
  5. After 2 days, cucumbers can be planted in the prepared soil. At the end, the bed is covered with polyethylene.

Important! It is recommended to fix the film along the edges with plastic water bottles so that the film does not fly off in case of strong wind.

Helpful advice from experienced gardeners

  • For a cucumber bed, it is advisable to choose a place where the wind will not blow.
  • There should be no running water at the landing site.
  • It is advisable to choose a site for planting warm.
  • It is worth paying attention to what grew up to cucumbers in that place. Is it possible to plant cucumbers after those crops.
  • You can water cucumber seedlings with warm water, because cold water will destroy the plant. It should be remembered that cucumbers are a thermophilic culture.
  • It is better to plant planting material in the soil at the end of April. This will maximize the yield. In greenhouses and greenhouses, cucumbers are planted even until late autumn.
  • Weeds are regularly removed from the cucumber beds. Weeds should be controlled throughout the growth of the vegetable crop. You can treat the place where cucumbers grow with chemicals.

Building beds and caring for cucumber bushes does not take much time. And with the right approach, the beds will delight the owners with a bountiful harvest.


How high beds are arranged

The device of high beds is always an individual matter, because the structure itself, first of all, is dependent on the occurrence of groundwater. If the indicator is high, then the beds are located directly on the surface of the earth. At low deposits, where the soil is dry, part of the box is dug into the ground.

A tall, warm bed is akin to a multi-layered cake consisting of organic matter, wood waste. It can be stationary and mobile, which can be rearranged annually to a more suitable place. Fertile soil is always poured on top of the organic filler.

As for the principle of operation of the bed, it provides for the accumulation of heat, which is formed during the decay of organic waste that emit methane.

This reaction is possible solely due to the combination of fresh manure with organic matter, which is, in fact, waste:

  • Kitchen waste such as cleaning, some food leftovers, egg shells
  • Garden waste: crop tops, weeds, rotten fruits
  • Waste after wood processing.

To start a thermal reaction in high, warm beds, you need ordinary water, or rather boiling water. Microorganisms of the interlayers when interacting with methane form carbon dioxide. The bed begins to warm up.

If the heat storage layer is equipped correctly, the operational life of such a bed can last almost 10 years.


Cucumbers in warm beds

Harvest of cucumbers

In fact, no one among gardeners claims that high yield of cucumbers can be obtained equally on any soil. Success still largely depends on the location of the site and on the quality of the soil. This culture is very demanding for heat and light. Cucumbers grow best on structured, well-fertilized, loose and moist soils, where stagnant warm air is kept.

I chose a plot for cucumbers protected from the north-western side by a vineyard, and from the north - by a barn from the east, they are covered with giant tomatoes. And only the south side is open. Thus, the cucumber area is located in a natural microclimate, as it were.

The root system of the cucumber is located in the upper layer of the soil, and the plant itself consumes and takes out nutrients in comparison with other crops. And if we take into account that 45-50 days after sowing the seeds, cucumbers begin to bear fruit, and after 80-90 days their development cycle ends altogether, it will become quite obvious: this culture is not burdensome for the land.

But keep in mind that cucumbers are placed on well-fertilized, loose and sufficiently moist soils. Of course, you need organic. In the fall, I collect all plant residues (tops and weeds) and steam them in hot water. To do this, I use an iron 200-liter barrel placed on bricks: pour water, light a fire, put the leftovers into a container. I take out the hot plant mass and put it in a pre-dug trench, its length is 20 m, its depth is 35 cm, and its width is a little more than 1 m.In this trench I also put small brushwood, rags, paper, add fluff-lime, fill it all up with the removed earth ... In the spring-summer period of the next year, all rotting residues release heat, creating a microclimate in the ground layer of the ridges that promotes the growth of cucumbers. The garden bed also emits carbon dioxide, which, it seems to me, contributes to a greater appearance of female flowers. Before digging the soil on a cucumber plot, I scatter half-decomposed manure from cattle (30 buckets), as well as 3 buckets of wood ash and 3 kg of nitroammophoska. I level the manure with a rake, dig up the earth with a shovel with a seam turnover, this is where the preparation of the site is, consider, completed.

In the spring, after the snow melts, as the soil allows, I again spread the rotted manure (20 buckets) on this site, dig up the ground with a pitchfork, loosen it with a rake. The soil is resting until the seedlings are planted. During this time, I will occasionally walk with a pitchfork and a rake in order to prevent moisture evaporation and at the same time achieve the necessary air permeability of the soil, the accumulation of the necessary reserves of nutrients in it.

Some gardeners argue that cucumbers are a capricious crop, it is not always possible to get a decent harvest. I think this reasoning is wrong. The essence lies not in the whims of the cucumber, but in the inability to cultivate, in the inability to create conditions for the growth, development and fruiting of the cucumber. The skill should be reduced to creating such conditions under which the cucumbers could bloom quickly, and during fruiting as long as possible to remain with healthy leaves - entails the formation of new stems, shoots and leaves.

A popular proverb says: "What is the seed - so is the tribe." I begin to prepare for sowing with a piece-by-piece selection of seeds 2-3 years ago. Such seeds germinate better and produce more female flowers. Before sowing, the seeds are treated in a strong solution of potassium permanganate, the processing time is 20-30 minutes. Then I wash the seeds in water and soak them for 12 hours in warm snow or rain water, put them in a plastic bag and put them in the refrigerator under the freezer for 10-12 hours (temperature from 0 to 2 ° C). After removing the seeds from the refrigerator, I move them closer to warmth for 8-12 hours, after which I put them back in the refrigerator for 10-12 hours and again for the same amount in a warm place. I put the seeds hardened in this way in a wet burlap and place them in a warm place for germination. When pecking the sprouts, I sow the seeds in prepared boxes with sawdust, scalded in advance with boiling water and treated with a solution of potassium permanganate (pink). I put the seeds to a depth of 1.5 cm, placing the seed from the seed at a distance of 1.5 cm, after which I water it with warm snow or rain water.

Sowing seeds I coincide with the third decade of April, and 10-day-old seedlings (seedlings) I dive into prepared boxes, divided into 6X6 cm cells and filled with a nutrient mixture harvested in the fall. The composition of the mixture: I add a glass of wood ash, a 2-liter jar of humus, the same amount of river sand, a tablespoon of superphosphate to a bucket of structural soil. I transplant the seedlings into pre-warmed boxes, pinching the main root by 1/3 of its length, immediately water it with warm rainwater with the addition of potassium permanganate (I bring it to pink). I maintain the temperature in the room up to 22-25 ° during the day, and up to 14-15 ° at night. As soon as the seedlings take root, I lower the temperature: in the daytime to 18-20 °, at night - to 12-14 °. In the phase of one true leaf, I begin to give foliar top dressing with crystallin solution (2 tablespoons per bucket of water). I water it as the soil dries up.

After a week and a half, add potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation (from the tip of a knife). Fed seedlings grow strong and have large green leaves.

And when the weather is warm, I take the green pets outside, in partial shade. In the future, I put the seedlings in a sunny place, protected from the winds. In the wild, plants get used to natural conditions. In the phase of 2-3 true leaves, before planting in a permanent place, I give the plants abundant watering and spray them with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. Before planting seedlings, I warm up the soil (10 days before planting), then stretch the film. I choose seedlings with a clod of earth, plant them in two rows: the distance between them is 50 cm, the gap in the row is 30-35 cm. Then I squeeze the land around the plants, give watering - water tinted with potassium permanganate. I install iron arcs and stretch the perforated film. When the temperature in the shelter rises above 24 ° in the daytime, I raise the film from the leeward side to a height of 25 cm.In the second decade, there are still frosts, so I protect the seedlings from the effects of the cold: I stretch sackcloth on the frame, put the film on it.

And now it's warm... Having removed the film and burlap, I am engaged in foliar feeding of plants, spraying with a nutrient solution (for 10 liters of water I put 1 tablespoon of urea, a few grains of potassium permanganate, 3 g of copper sulfate, 3 g of boric acid). In total, I do 6-7 sprays per season, one of them with an extract from ash and mullein infusion. Such treatment suppresses the outbreak of downy mildew, creates conditions for the rapid regrowth of lateral shoots and the formation of fruits on them. Keep in mind: temperature extremes, cold, prolonged springs and high humidity, as well as rain, fog and condensation in the shelter contribute to powdery mildew. Under these conditions, the incubation period of the pathogen lasts 3-4 days.

The main symptom of the disease is the appearance on the upper side of the leaf of light green oily spots of a round or angular shape. The fruits are not affected, but on a diseased plant they are light-colored and tasteless. Based on this, I conduct watering, feeding and spraying in the morning or in the evening. At the same time, I must mulch the soil under the plants so that by night the surface is in a dry state. I carefully remove the weeds, cut the large ones so as not to damage the root system of the cucumber. All my agricultural techniques are aimed at creating favorable conditions for the growth and development of plants, to increase their resistance to diseases. I use a selection of modern varieties: Krinitsa, Competitor, Vityaz. In the fruiting phase, I spray the plants with an infusion of fresh mullein (1:10) and a 1% solution of copper sulfate with the addition of soap. I spend all feeding and spraying after the next harvest of fruits.

I tie the whips to the trellis. I distribute them in a checkerboard pattern - I throw some on the right side of the trellis, others on the left. So the plants are viewed from all sides, watering, feeding and spraying is much easier, as it is easier to care for plants and pick cucumbers. Both varieties and hybrids work well on the trellis.

To get the testes, I cross-pollinate the first flowers that have appeared by hand, trying to do this in the morning. Varying in early terms, I take off the main harvest of cucumbers before a massive outbreak of downy mildew, which usually happens in our country on July 20-25. My garden products are environmentally friendly.

And the last thing.Cucumbers do not tolerate watering at the root, this erodes the earth, the root system is disturbed. Therefore, I water the cucumbers in shallow grooves, sprinkle the bottom of the stems with humus. All this favors the microclimate in the plantings of cucumbers, restrains the outbreak of diseases.



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