Why Do Radishes Not Form: Reasons A Radish Does Not Form Bulbs


Radishes are one of those rapid growers that delight the gardener with their early appearance. The fat little bulbs are a crowd pleaser with their zesty flavor and crunch. Occasionally, radishes don’t form, which is a puzzler in such an easy to grow, quick crop. If you have a new planting bed, there are several cultural reasons for this. In established beds, weather is often the culprit when radish plants only grow tops. Follow your eyes down to explain “why do radishes not form” in different scenarios.

Reasons a Radish Does Not Form Bulbs

With their nippy flavor and chubby rounded bodies, radishes are pleasing even to children and picky vegetable eaters. Another attractive attribute is how quickly you can eat them from seed to edible root. Most varieties are ready in 3 to 4 weeks, a relatively low seed to produce time when compared to many crops. If you are wondering why do radishes not form in your seedbed, perhaps you haven’t prepared the soil correctly or you may be combating Mother Nature. Relocation, proper cultivation and thinning will often solve the problem.

Radish plants produce thickly leaved tops with the bright edible fruit hidden under the soil. Once your tops are fully leaved and a month has gone by since seeding, it is natural to want to eat them. But lo and behold, once pulled the radishes don’t form. Instead, you are stuck with a handful of greens.

Although the greens can be very tasty, they aren’t the prize for which you waited. Figuring out why radish plants only grow tops can be very frustrating. In new beds, it is often because you didn’t loosen soil deeply enough. As a root crop, radishes depend upon loose soil to expand and develop thick roots into bulbs.

Excess nitrogen in soil and neutral acidity will also slow the forming of radishes.

A common cause of radishes not growing bulbs is overcrowding. Overcrowded radishes don’t have the room they need to produce fleshy bulbs, so thinning to two inches apart can help promote bulb formation.

Radishes like full sun and need a minimum of 6 hours of light to produce adequate bulbs. Additionally, radishes are a cool season vegetable and will bolt in hot weather, choosing to produce seed rather than fat little bulbs. When temperatures reach 80 degrees Fahrenheit (26 C.), you can expect the plants to focus on forming flowers rather than roots.

In areas with rainy springs, boggy, heavy soil will waterlog the plants and cause them to stop producing bulbs and concentrate on leafy tops. Sometimes, when radishes don’t form, changing sowing time and location are the simple steps needed to have future successful crops.

Tips for Radishes Not Growing Bulbs

If your crop of radish does not form bulbs consistently, you need to attack the problem culturally and with situational tactics. Choose a seed bed that is in sun for most of the day but is not exposed during the high heat of the day. Morning or afternoon sun for 6 hours is sufficient for bulb formation.

Prepare the bed by tilling in compost or sand, if heavy, and to a depth of at least 8 inches (20 cm.). Avoid incorporating lots of nitrogen into the soil, which will only promote leafy tops.

Sow seed on the surface of the soil with just a sprinkle of covering earth. Planting time is also a contributing factor to lack of bulb production. Sow seeds as soon as soil is workable. You can sow successive crops until late spring but avoid sowing in summer, as radishes may fail to form and those that do tend to be cracked and bitter.


Growing radishes in home gardens

Radishes come in many sizes, colors, and types. Most familiar are the garden radishes (Raphanus sativus var. radicula). Garden radishes have a spicy flavor and crisp juicy texture. They are good in salads and can stand alone as a snack.

Radishes may be spherical or carrot-shaped, and in a rainbow of colors: green, white, pink, red, purple and yellow. You may plant these small roots in the spring, but you can also grow them as a fall crop.

Home gardeners can also grow the long, white, Asian radish (R. sativus var. longipinnatus), often called daikon, its Japanese name. These roots can grow to large sizes, and are typically less spicy or hot than the garden types. Gardeners often plant them in the late summer for a late fall harvest. You can store them for fresh use for up to two months.

Radishes do best when grown in cooler conditions, and are tolerant of cold weather. You can grow tender, juicy, flavorful radishes if the plants grow quickly without stress. They may develop a flower that goes to seed, develop excessively hot flavor or become woody during the heat of a typical Minnesota summer.

You should follow seed packet or catalog recommendations for individual varieties.

Soil pH and fertility

Soil testing and fertilizer

  • Have your soil tested.
  • Any well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soil with pH 6 to 7 will do for radishes, as long as the soil is not compacted.
  • Although daikon can penetrate heavy soils to depths more than one foot, the roots will not be as smooth, uniform and tender as those grown in lighter, prepared soils. If your soil is stony or very heavy, choose shorter daikon varieties.
  • You can improve your soil by adding well-rotted manure or compost in spring or fall.
  • Do not use fresh manure as it may contain harmful bacteria and increase weed problems. The readily available nitrogen can stimulate branching of the roots.
  • Do not use any fertilizer containing a weed killer ("Weed and Feed"), as it may kill your vegetable plants.

Planting

Direct seeding and thinning

  1. Prepare the radish bed by loosening soil at least six inches deep, a foot or more for long types. For daikon, create raised beds to ensure loosening of the soil and to make harvest easier.

Like other seedlings in the cabbage family, radishes have a distinct appearance: two fleshy cotyledons shaped like capital Bs, followed by true leaves that may be somewhat hairy and toothed.

How to keep your radishes healthy and productive

  • Radish taproots can be large, but the horizontal roots do not extend far into the soil. Make sure they receive enough rainfall or deep watering.
  • Drought stress can cause the roots to develop poor flavor and a tough texture.
  • If the planting does not get one inch of rain each week, soak the soil thoroughly at least once a week.
  • If your soil is sandy, it is important to water more often than once a week.
  • An inch of water will wet a sandy soil to a depth of ten inches, a heavy clay soil to six inches.
  • Use a trowel to see how far down the soil is wet. If it is only an inch or two, keep the water running.
  • Radishes germinate and grow quickly. By the time you harvest garden radishes, weeds do not have a chance to become a problem.
  • If you grow daikon, good weed control will be important for good yields and quality.
  • Mulching with three to four inches of herbicide-free grass clippings, weed-free straw, compost, or other organic material will keep soil moisture and contain weeds, decreasing the need for frequent cultivation.
  • Start cultivating with a hoe or other tool to remove weed seedlings while they are still small.
  • Do not cultivate too deeply or you may damage the roots. Use a hand tool or a hoe, and cultivate just deeply enough to cut the weeds off below the surface.
  • Root maggots feed on the developing roots.
  • Flea beetles chew small, round holes in leaves. They can spread disease and destroy the crop, especially when the plants are very young.
  • Use good cultural control practices to reduce disease problems to a good level and allow for a successful harvest.
  • For assistance in diagnosing unknown problems, visit the University of Minnesota Extension diagnostic site “What’s wrong with my plant?”

Garden radishes are usually ready for harvest three to five weeks after planting. You can pull them any time they reach a usable size. They will get fibrous and develop a strong taste if left in the ground too long. Remove greens and wash roots well.

The daikon’s shoulders, or the top of the vegetable, typically stand up out of the soil, so the width of the root will be obvious. Spade or fork underneath the planting to harvest long daikon roots without breaking them. Remove the greens and wash the roots.

Daikon and garden radish will only keep for a week or two in the refrigerator. They lose moisture and become shriveled.


When we pick our radishes, they are nice and firm however, when they sit for a day or two in the fridge or on the counter, they become very soft. What can I do to keep them firm?

Radishes should be stored in an open or perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator and are best if used within two weeks of harvest.


2. You have Poor Soil Conditions

I talk about this in my How to Properly Test Your Soil, too. Check out that post to figure out how to use a water test to check your soil conditions. If your soil is too sandy, too compacted, too rocky, etc., it is difficult for root vegetables to grow properly. Adding good compost (learn how to make your own compost) or other garden soil is a good idea for giving your root vegetables some light, airy, non-compacted soil to grow in.

This is why I love gardening in raised beds. It’s a lot easier to prevent poor soil conditions in raised beds. However, you can fix your soil conditions if you do not use raised beds. Figure out if your soil is good quality for root vegetables to grow big bulbs underground by doing the water test in my How to Properly Test Your Soil post.

Another issue with poor soil conditions that I have learned over time is that proper aeration and drainage is SUPER IMPORTANT for growing root vegetables. Those roots cannot grow well if the soil is heavy. I have started adding vermiculite and perlite to my garden beds to make the soil lighter and full of air and my root vegetables are growing with GREAT SUCCESS now! Yay!


Radish Varieties

Early-Spring Varieties

  • 'Cherry Belle': Round, red matures in 22 days
  • 'Early Scarlet Globe': Round, red matures in 22 days
  • 'Easter Egg': Oval, mixed colors matures in 25 days

Heat-Tolerant Varieties

  • 'French Breakfast': Oblong, red/white base matures in 23 days
  • 'Icicle': Long and slender, white matures in 25 days
  • 'Rat Tailed': Grown for its edible pods, not its root matures in 45 to 50 days

Winter Radishes

  • 'China Rose': Red skin, white flesh matures in 52 days
  • 'Round Black Spanish': Black skin, white flesh matures in 55 days
  • Daikon: Long, white mild flavor matures in 60 days

Are you dying to explore growing radishes in containers or growing radishes from seeds. Look no further and more! I know you’re going to discover how radishes really are some of the best low maintenance garden plants to grow.

Surprisingly, radishes are one of the top sellers at my farmers market stand in the spring. They sell out so quickly. My favorite variety to grow and sell are the Cherry Belles (I’ll go through some more varieties later). For many reasons and more, you just can’t go wrong when it comes to radishes.

– List out all of the best practices to grow great radishes in your home garden.
– Cover radish nutrition and health benefits for you.
Vegetable Garden ideas to make the most of your radish crops!

I know you’re ready. Let’s dig right in!

Which Radish Varieties Grow Best?

Cherry Belle Radish

To be completely honest, radishes are super easy to grow. The main thing to keep in mind is that there are differences in shape, color and growing time.

You can choose between round varieties and elongated varieties. Red or white or multicolor. Also, if you have a taste preference, there are different varieties that are spicier or have more of a kick than other varieties.

Round varieties include:

– Red Boy
– Comet
– Red Prince
– Scarlet Globe
– Cherry Belle (My Favorite)

Icicle White Radish

Multicolored varieties include Easter Egg and white radishes are either icicle or round white.

I’m not really going to discuss which varieties taste a certain way because I believe everyone has different preferences. I will repeat that the Cherry Belles are my absolute favorite radish to grow, eat and sell.

When to Plant Radishes?

Radishes are a cool season crop that grow really quickly. The nice thing about them is that you can have several crops of radishes in the season before the weather gets hot.

Plant your radish seeds in mid to late March for the earliest crop. After they are ready to harvest in April, you could plant another one if the weather stays cool. I have planted them in a shady spot in May for June radishes and they did great.

Radishes also grow great in the Fall. For a Fall crop, plant seeds in early September. Because they are a root crop, they really don’t transplant very well. Here are some tips for direct seeding radish seeds.

How to Plant Seeds to Grow Great Radishes

Tape measure

Another really nice thing about radishes is that they can be grown in a very narrow space, raised beds or containers. Each radish needs 1-2 inches of growing room for a nice root size.

Be sure to plant them very shallow – only 1/4 inch deep.

– Space seeds 2 inches a part in the row.
– 2-3 inches row spacing.
– Plant seeds 1/4 inch deep.

Cover seeds with nice fluffy soil. In a week or so, you’ll start to see radish tops popping up. Next, we’ll talk about how to care for the plants to ensure growing great radishes.

Caring for Plants to Grow Great Radishes

No-nitrogen fertilizer

Radishes can grow in almost any type of soil. Whether you’re growing great radishes in clay, sandy or fluffy loam soil, radish roots will develop and grow. But there are a few things you need to be aware of for growing nice sized radish roots.

First of all, since radishes are a root crop, the soil does need to be well-draining. If you live on clay soil, your soil is going to hold water longer. If you’re on sandy soil, your soil will dry out faster and you’ll need to water the radishes more frequently. So, of the vegetable gardening ideas you can put into practice when it comes to growing radishes, being aware of the moisture is one of the most important.

More vegetable gardening ideas are to keep in mind of fertilizer and weed control. It’s so important to become aware of these important practices. Let’s talk fertilizer, first.

Have you ever pulled up a healthy beautiful root crop only to find…nothing?

This can happen to your radish crops! You know – when radishes all tops no bottoms can be a disappointing end to your radish crop.

Luckily, I’m here today to tell you the reason for this. It’s caused by too much nitrogen fertilizer! Surprisingly, excessive NITROGEN fertilizer can encourage these beautiful radish tops with very little radishes underneath. What a bummer.

Lastly, all root crops require weed control. If you have a well-draining soil, go ahead and apply a mulch. If your soil is clay and water holding, simply pulling weeds by hand is a better way to handle this until it’s time to harvest.

Common Growing Problems

While radishes are pretty easy and very quick to grow, these are some problems you might face when growing them:

  • Flea Beetles – Find varieties that are resistant to these flea beetles.
  • Root Maggots – Keep too much moisture from holding where the radishes are planting.

Knowing these production vegetable gardening ideas and tips will help you to be proactive when growing great radishes.

Harvesting Radishes

In loose soil, radishes can easily be pulled, especially if the soil is moist. Just pull gently so you don’t pull off those beautiful tops.

If you desire a tool for digging radishes, I recommend a spading fork. Spading fork

Store excess radishes by removing tops and placing in plastic bags in the refrigerator. Your radishes will remain good to eat for a week or more.

Radishes can’t really be preserved, unfortunately. It’s nice that they are so small. Generally speaking, you should be able to use them up when they are fresh.

Nutrition Facts of Radishes

Radishes are good for you. Hands down. Here are some of the great health facts about radish nutrition:

– Low in calories and carbs
– Very high in Vitamin C and Potassium

And all of these great benefits lead to:

– Better Weight Management
– Healthy Heart
– Healthy Skin
– Arthritis

So, what’s not to love about radishes? Knowing this radish nutrition, let’s explore some ways to enjoy radishes.

Ways to Use Radishes

I know many people who shop my farmers market stand to purchase radishes from me and eat them raw while they hand around the market. This isn’t for everyone!

But the best tried and true recipes or ways to use radishes involve salads. Lettuce and pasta salads both of use of for the extra kick a radish provides in taste. You can also pickle radishes for a tasty side.

Finally, slice, season and roast radishes in the oven until crispy for a spicy snack. If you have a favorite recipe using fresh radishes, by all means – Share it in the comments below! I’m dying to know how you love to enjoy fresh radishes!

Radishes Provide a Different Taste

There’s a lot to appreciate about radishes. It’s healthy and full of radish nutrition. It’s also tasty and many people love to just eat them raw.

But more than all of that, it’s really easy to grow great radishes in your garden. I hope today, I’ve given you some very useful vegetable garden ideas for growing great radishes to enjoy.

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Radish failure

My radishes had big healthy leaves. But when I pulled them up after 6 weeks, no radish, only a long tap root.

I think this may be an excess nitrogen problem, but I don't know. When I prepared the bed (new) I added composted humus to the soil. I added nothing else. I saw no sign of insects although I read that cutworms can destroy radishes.

Anyone have this problem? How do I fix it for the fall planting?

dervish2 - which kind of radish did you sow? Some are round and some are tapered.

Birke -- Have you ever heard of this before? Does it sound like it is a nitrogen problem? Now I have to find some recipes for radish greens. they are mildly spicy.

HoneybeeNC - they were round, an heirloom variety, I forget which one. They were not icicle radishes - too skinny.

If it is a surplus of Nitrogen, I guess my tomatoes and cukes nearby should do well, but my beets and carrots are probably doomed too.

One other possibility, since it was a very hot spring. Radishes don't bulb up when the soil gets too warm.

I planted a Daikon radish (Minowase hybrid, white and carrot-shaped). The above-ground part had stalks 3-4 feet tall, loads of leaves and flowers and produced lots of seeds. (Too bad it was a hybrid!) The root was supposed to be up to 16" long and 1.75 pounds .

The root was actually more like 1" of a thin wooden pencil and trailed a hair-thin root another 6-8". This was in the best-amended soil I had at the time (still fairly heavy clay.)

Someone told me that was a "summer radish" and wanted more heat plus a long season, even though the catalog said "52 days" and it was in the ground at least 2, maybe 3 months.

Maybe yours will be the opposite and prefer the cold to the heat.
Did you expect a red ball?

My radishes did the same thing. i sowed several and very few had bulbs. Farmerdill is right too hot.

Minowase is a winter type radish. does not do well spring planted. Here I plant them in September for harvest around Thanksgiving. They will hold in the ground until they start bolting in February. http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/77406/

thank you. I think you may be right.

>> Minowase is a winter type radish. does not do well spring planted.

I do have some that either reseeded or overwintered . from the size, I assume re-seeded. However, even thoguih they proabably fell to ground last fall, they came up and bolted this spring as if they had been sown before the last frost. I don't think I've ever seen the above ground parts NOT go right into flowering.

I may try them again this fall. I have a lot of seed from last year. Interesting, I see that Kitazawa sells a hybrid strain, and Hazzards had an OP strain. Fortunately, I bought from Hazards!

"I think this may be an excess nitrogen problem, but I don't know. When I prepared the bed (new) I added composted humus to the soil."

Remember, Folks, humus really has no (or very little) nutritive value. I seriously doubt you have an excess of N if all you added to your soil was composted humus, dervish.

As for getting root crops, including radish, to bulb up you may want to focus more on phosphorus and potassium. And yep, as Farmerdill pointed out radishes don't tend to bulb when it is hot weather so best to sow them in late winter so they mature in early summer or sow late summer for maturing in the cooler months of fall.

I bought seeds of "Red Meat" radish several years ago because it was supposedly a "summer radish". I had no luck with it at all here in NC. It turns out it was later touted to be sown in late summer for fall harvest. My bad! :>)

Hey Shoe. I call it the watermelon radish, but I have grown in late winter early spring. Bulbs up when sown in January but does not hold at all. Really fine winter radish tho. http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/68333/

I still have some seeds so will give it another try.

Hope all is well down your way. Wishing you a bumper crop of all things this year!

I just read that some radishes need to be sown when the days are getting shorter, in order to mature correctly. So they need to be sown after the summer solstice . This is coming from some one who cannot grow radishes tho.


I was just looking at a catalog that had 4 different color radishes that matured in less then a month, they are all different colors. I thought they would be so pretty and I could mess them I up in less then 30 days lol! I also have some seeds for those watermelon radishes.

This message was edited Jun 5, 2012 12:24 PM

I thought I was the only one who could not get radishes to grow. I thought they were the easy crop.

Some radishes must be easy. I succeeded the first time I threw some French Breakfast radish seeds into some heavy clay soil (very early, cool spring, and I kept them moist). Pinetree also said they could have been sown in late summer, but I didn 't try that.

What I appreciated most was that they were the very first edible thing that came up.

I think I still prefer "Cherry Bell" radish above all others. They come on very fast, fill out nicely, hold their flavor long and don't get overly-spicy for a long time. Other radish I've grown seem to go from bulb to hot fairly fast.

I liked reading Terry's entry on the watermelon radish (Thanks for including the link, F-dill). What a great idea to use radish for something more than just nibbling on and/or in salads.

Shoe (off to set out some more dwarf tomato plants before our expected rain. Yay! Rain!)

Glad somebody is getting rain, all we are getting is light dry weather showers from time to time. By the way shoe, winter radishes, watermelon in particular have delicious greens. delicious cooked like turnips with chucks of radish mixed with the greens. None of them are really good garden salad radishes, use the European radishes for that. http://www.yummly.com/recipes/asian-radish http://www.epicurious.com/tools/searchresults?search=+winter+radish http://www.recipetips.com/kitchen-tips/t--827/all-about-radishes.asp

I grew the Black Spanish radish a couple of years. Man, were they hot. Way too spicy for me!

Shoe-glad to see you posting again. I'm jealous that your getting rain and it's cool enough for you to work in the garden. I'm impatiently waiting for the humidity to go down so the heat index will drop too. Guess I'll have to do housework.

Yeh. have been exceptionally busy here with the greenhouse, market, landscaping, and finally got to work on my own gardens again! I'm fine but sure am tired all the time! :>)

Nice recipe links, F-dill. I had to save the Pickled Daikon/Radish recipe! I love things like that. Guess I better get prepared for growing more daikons.

Wonder how those radishes would be in Kimchi?

I LOVE kimchi! You just stole my heart! :>)

I better go prepare a fall radish bed.

I make my own kimchi, love it too!!
Belle

I've made my own Kimchi too. My Aunt is Korean, after making it I don't think we had any bugs in the house for 3-4 years. Yes, it does remove paint lol so it has many uses. My mom and I would buy a huge jar and have it half eaten by the time we got it home.

Maybe ya'll could post your kimchi recipes, eh? I've made it quite often, often making minor changes here and there to get it "just perfect".

Although I usually use cabbage I once bought some radish (or daikon) kimchi from the Oriental store, very crunchy and tasty.

We had rain yesterday/last night. Our nights are still very cool here (kind of rare) so sitting here wishing I had radish in the ground now. I'm sure they'd still be putting out pretty good.

I don't have a recipe, I can't remember how we did it. I just remember we used cabbage and the house house did STINK! I have eaten the radish kimchi many times, but never made it.


If I can get her recipe I'll let you know. ANYTHING, for you Shoe. : )

Well, I've made the cabbage kimchi but it didn't stink up the place. The "real" kimchi is normally fermented for quite a while and I understand it stinks to high heaven. I just let mine "cure" for a day or so on the counter then keep it in the fridge.

Belle, do you have any tips for kimchi making? We keep talking about this, and radishes, I may end up going to the store and buying some radish.

Dervish, sorry to have gone off topic but maybe one day you'll be growing so many radishes you'll want some recipes, eh?

Lovely thread. I had the same problem with radish, watermelon no less, lots of leaves & tall bolt stems. I also put compost straight on them just as they were coming up. some did get small fruit on them but it was woody and very strong. I also am a worshipper of KimChi and would offer money to get a successful recipe. and Shoe, I always look for your input, trust your knowledge & posts completely. enjoy this continuous rain if you live anywhere near my area of the US.

"and Shoe, I always look for your input, trust your knowledge & posts completely. enjoy this continuous rain if you live anywhere near my area of the US. "

Howdy, Depsi. Nice to hear from you.
And thanks for your compliment, that goes a long way in this day and age. I'm grateful.

As for the rain, just bits and pieces of it right now but looking forward to more! My beans and corn are calling out. And I'd love to live closer to ya'll. don't you have the best soil in the country up your way?

As for Kimchi, I'll look up the recipes I've done (or made up) and share w/ya!

Best to you and yours.
Shoe

I just called my cousin in CA. she said she'd ask her mom about her Kimchi recipe. I told her I need a little more info then "some" and a little bit, as far as measurements go. Lol I will email her tomorrow. My aunt is Korean so it should be pretty authentic. When she was in Korea they use to bury it in the ground to let it ferment.

Donations will be accepted. Lol

Burying the Kimchi probably keeps the fermenting smell down.

Same here on the radishes. We have more problem with the radishes not bulbing as the weather gets hotter. I do use a shade cloth occasionally when it gets hot but have not tried it on the radishes to see if that helps.

Spring was three weeks earlier for us this year. Generally we plant radishes mid-March through mid-April in the spring. We'll start planting mid-August through mid-September for fall harvest.

I have on occasion let some of the radishes go to seed and used the seed pods eat raw or to cook in stir-fries. Some of the local farmers have been selling the pods to the restaurants. I am trying the rattail radish this year so will see what it's like.

rattail radish, now that's one I've never heard of before. sounds interesting.

Wow, thank you. we love greens and anything fresh like that in the garden.

You are welcome. We planted it around the time the radishes went in (March). I just started picking them this week. BTW - It doesn't take a lot of plants to get a lot of pods.

Be careful, Susan. I ate those seed pods a few years ago. Loved 'em! Delish! Unfortunately they tend to act like psyllium seed and sure kept me runnin' a while! :>)

I recommend eating them in small quantities, not pigging out on them like I did.

No worries. I like munching but not in large quanities. No problem last year with the regular radish pods. Do you think it's an issue with just the rat tail variety?

I tried some Daikon radish seed pods, and they ARE good! Thanks for the tip. Now I know what to do with all the Daikon raidish seed I saved last fall (Minowase, and the vendor said "OP").

Like a mild radish, but a little "greener". These were small, some looked like a pea pod with only one pea.

These must have re-seeded last fall, and came up this spring under some plastic I had laid down to keep some of the rain off. I was about to throw them all on the compost heap, but I remembered your suggestion and saved a few handsfull. Now I just have to figure out how big the dangerous dose is .

Ummm, I didn't make radishes on the plants planted either, but left for the pretty flowers- I was always taught that Nitrogen builds tops, iron builds roots- if the plant doesn't have iron it needs it won't grow. Any ideas on how the iron in your beds is?

"Ummm, I didn't make radishes on the plants planted either, but left for the pretty flowers- I was always taught that Nitrogen builds tops, iron builds roots-"

Actually, kittriana, it is phosphorus that plays an important role in root growth (as well as flower production). Iron plays little role in root production. I think you have mistaken "iron" for "phosphorus" especially concerning radish production since the radish part we eat is the "root" ( so to speak).

Most soils have ample iron. Many soils have ample phosphorus but if either of the two are lacking I'd go with phosphorus.

NC yes, pines and oaks thrive- our last year was truly horrendous tho- we also have good iron-but I planted in a raised bed-heavy compost and garden topsoil with mushroom compost. And while phosphorous is essential, so is iron in many plants. You guys have amended controlled beds, but iron is still important and it was just a passing thought to try. I know I will when I get home mid July once again



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