5 options for how to make a support for peas with your own hands


The mistake of many gardeners is growing peas without tying them to a support. This significantly reduces yields and complicates plant care. Trellis for a pea bed is not difficult to make with your own hands without significant cash spending.

Why do you need a support for peas

Peas are a plant with a lodging stem reaching a height of 45 cm to 250 cm. To fully develop and rise up to the light, the stems need to cling to the support. There are also standard types of culture that do not need support. But undersized plants only benefit from tying.

When the peas outgrow 20-30 cm, the stems gradually lodge on the ground. Areas of bushes adjacent to the ground begin to rot and become affected by diseases. Dampness and darkening are formed under the plants - the best conditions for snails and slugs.

Lodged green mass covers the pods. With a lack of light, the beans ripen unevenly, do not accumulate nutrients and sugars to the proper extent. Such peas lose their taste and sweetness.

It is difficult for growers to control the ripening of the pods. Overripe beans take up most of the plant's nutrients. Bushes begin to dry even under favorable growth conditions.

It is difficult to spray fallen plants with preventive solutions, covering all parts of the bushes. Culture is more often affected by bruchus, which is capable of destroying the entire crop. Beans damaged by the pest are toxic and should not be used for food or for sowing.

The advantage of supports for small garden areas is the verticality of the beds. This saves usable floor space. With a successful selection of support, the pea bed becomes an element of the site's decor, covers unsightly buildings or fences.

Peas are tied to a trellis when the plant grows to 10-15 cm. To do this, it is enough to attach the antennae of the plant to the support, and as it grows, follow the subsequent fixation of the stems.

How to do it yourself

There are many options for pea props. To choose the type of trellis, they are guided by the features of the site, the place of the garden and the desired decorative effect.

It is advisable to install the support before planting the legume, marking the place of sowing the beans. Installation work after emergence can damage the roots and stems of the plant.

Support stakes

The easiest option for garter peas, where stakes driven into the ground play the role of a stand. For this, reinforcing rods, wooden stakes, bamboo sticks, branches of fruit trees 1.5-2 m long are used. The stakes are buried in the ground with an interval of 50 cm between two beds.

Wigwam

A good support option when you need to save space and add decorative effect to the empty space between vegetable beds.

To begin with, a main pole with a height of 2 m is installed. Poles are driven in a circle at a distance of 0.7 m at a slope of 60 ° and in the upper part are fixed with a knitting wire or a clamp to the main pole. The peas are planted on both sides of the tilted poles.

The trellis can be constructed from reinforcing rods, wooden beams and tree branches. Tight wire, twine, or twine can be used instead of tilted poles.

Portable trellis

To comply with agricultural practices peas are planted in one place only two years in a row... Therefore, gardeners have to constantly build trellises in a new location. This version of the tapestry is mobile. It can be carried, rotated in different angles and put away in storage for a while.

To install the trellis you will need:

  • three transverse beams along the length of the bed;
  • two beams (1 m) for side mountings;
  • four beams (1.6-2 m) for vertical racks;
  • twine or cord;
  • screws and screwdriver.

The screws are used to fasten the base of the structure: transverse and side beams. Vertical racks connected at the top are attached to it from the outside under a slope. Another transverse beam is attached at the top. The twine is pulled every 30 cm, passing through the upper transverse bar and tying on the base of the structure.

Support on the grid

An easy-to-install version of the trellis is a structure with a netting made of metal or plastic. It can be purchased at a hardware store or garden store. For tying peas, choose a mesh with a width of 1.6 - 2 m.

To fix the mesh, two support pillars are driven into the ground. The end of the net is attached to the support post with knitting wire or clamps. Then the roll is pulled up to the second pillar and secured in the same way. Peas are sown on both sides of the net.

When a pea bed is planned along a fence or structure, the grid is installed at an inclination of 60 °.It is only important to take into account the illumination of the plants; the garden should not be planned along the fence along the southern side of the site.

If possible, the trellis should be installed frontally to the prevailing winds. So the wind presses the plants to the supports, preventing damage to flowers, stems and fruits.

Bicycle rim trellis

This is an original type of support, which will decorate the site and save usable space. To mount it, you will need two bicycle rims, a 2.2 m long reinforcing bar, wire and twine (cord).

Step-by-step instruction:

  • form a bed 20 cm wider than the rim;
  • a reinforcing bar is installed in its center;
  • spokes are unscrewed from the rims;
  • one rim is threaded through the rod and laid on the ground;
  • the second rim is attached at the top of the rod with wire, passing it through the holes for the knitting needles;
  • the cord is cut into pieces 2 times the height of the rod;
  • one end of the cord is threaded into the holes of the lower rim, the second is passed through the holes of the upper rim and tied at the bottom;
  • up to 30 holes are pierced with a cord.

Peas are sown in a circle on the outside and inside of the structure.

Some gardeners practice planting peas in combination with plants with a strong, upright stem. Sunflower and corn with leaves removed from the lower part of the stem can provide natural support for peas.

Pea trellis option best when planning your annual plantings. This way you can achieve the maximum decorative effect of the site and avoid unwanted neighborhood with other plants.


What kind of support can be made for the peas?

This year, I sowed peas not in the garden bed, but next to the compost bin, but on the side where there is no wall. The peas have already grown 10-15 centimeters. Can you tell me how you can make a support for him? Previously, I just put arcs, but I don't like such a support - it's inconvenient to assemble. What can you think of?

Yes, I can also confirm that the best support for peas is twigs, and not smooth straight ones, but just such twigs with shoots. The peas will hook themselves onto the support and curl upward.


Inexpensive mesh ... will last for many years.



Inna, any branches. In the spring, we prune shrubs and trees, branches remain, I choose the appropriate size and stick peas along the seedlings. This year these are hazel branches. Sorry for the unkempt look, it has been raining for a week now, not before weeding.
Peas and twigs

Yes, I can also confirm that the best support for peas is twigs, and not smooth straight ones, but just such twigs with shoots. The peas will hook themselves onto the support and curl upward.


This year I planted only some kind of fodder peas (there was no time to buy ordinary seeds, so I ordered peas on the basis of feed for agricultural animals, well, I sowed it. I have a netting there, the vegetable garden is separated from the garden, because in the fall I am on the garden (after harvesting) I let goats go for a walk. Well, near the chain-link, to which the beds are adjacent, I sowed peas. Further, in the beds, whatever - somewhere dill, somewhere beets, potatoes, still zucchini under arcs are covered, and at fence all the beds end with peas.

I used to plant it with a net - I took used metal decorative nets with a cell of five centimeters (from someone's flower beds, and some stubs and scraps), stuck sticks and put this net on them with a fence 25 centimeters high on the garden bed. Peas curled over it.

And so the easiest way is really to stick sticks and that's all.

Yes, I sowed, and a green shop, and some "ordinary" that is sold on a grain basis (there are many interesting things on the basis, I usually order all sorts of things for goats and poultry in bags). I do not know the truth of what will grow out of this, the rains were pouring painfully, though the garden bed was slightly raised. Sparrows also walked, I hope they did not eat it, having dug it out of the ground (I sowed it in the furrows and covered it with sand and infested bedding, I have enough "budget" beds from what happens at hand). I also sowed (and sprinkled) a sunflower there (and sprinkled it), it (if it sprouts and did not peck) it will be possible, if something happens, to this mesh and tie it up from the winds.

But fodder peas have already begun to sprout, just like potatoes.


What is the support for?

Support for peas is needed already in the period when the height of its sprouts reaches 30 cm. An adult plant can rise up to two or more meters. Without support, it will not be able to stand upright due to the weakness of the stem. And therefore, already at a height of about 30 cm, peas are prone to lodging.

This should not be allowed for the following reasons:

  • in a "creeping" position, individual plants are intertwined, which will complicate the subsequent collection of pods
  • stems, leaves and pods lying on the ground are prone to rot, shrinkage and other diseases
  • ripe pods can not always be found under the lying leaves and stems, they overripe, which gives the whole plant a "signal" about the end of the growing season, the result - the plant begins to dry
  • yield and early ripening of planting are significantly affected: not all parts of the crop receive good lighting and are provided with fresh air.

With a support, the peas will stand upright, well illuminated and viewed from all sides. The pods will ripen evenly, and the peas will have normal juiciness and sugariness.

Cultivated planting of peas usually does not disturb dangerous diseases.









DIY plant supports - 15 great options for the garden

Bush holders and plant supports can be bought at a garden store, or you can do it yourself, fortunately, there are enough options and materials.

We offer you a variety of designs, among which you will definitely find something for yourself.

Of course, not all supports for garden plants can be made from scrap materials, for some you will have to go to a hardware store. However, the end result in any case will come out cheaper than the factory one, and the pride of self-production will not leave you for several more seasons.

For zoning and decorating a site in gardens, arches entwined with weaving plants are often used.

An arch can become an entrance to a plot, a garden, a vegetable garden or a recreation area, an element of a hedge. Depending on its size, benches, swings or shade-loving plants can be placed in it.

An arch on the site can be built from wood, metal, plastic pipes, or you can purchase a ready-made structure. Regardless of which option you choose, the supports of the arch will need to be dug to a depth of at least 60-80 cm and concreted or fixed in the ground with stones and brick breakage, since this structure has strong windage and can be damaged by the wind.

You can also find arches made of stone, they are more durable than all the others, but it is almost impossible to fold one like this without preparation.

Although everyone chooses the size of the arch himself, it should not be lower than 2.2 m and already 1 m, because otherwise it will be difficult to pass through it after the plants braid the support.

In order to make a metal arch yourself, you will need: a pipe with a diameter of 30 mm, a bar or reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm and 10 mm, a tape measure, a pipe bender, a welding machine, a hacksaw for metal, wire cutters, a hammer and a level. The works are performed in the following order.

Rope supports

The simplest support for climbing plants with your own hands can be made using ordinary twine or thin rope, both natural and plastic.

Such a support is usually located against the wall of a house, gazebo or shed and is intended for climbing ornamental or garden plants.

The support is elementary in execution, but it has a number of disadvantages. Firstly, the support from the twine is unaesthetic and looks poor, and secondly, it is not too strong and under the load of green fruits it can break off. Finally, it is short-lived, and every year the rope will have to be cut and reinforced.

If you want to quickly make a support for climbing plants with your own hands, then just drive nails into the wall under the roof or fasten anchors, and tie a twine to them, to the bottom of which you can tie the plants.

You can place such a support both on the south and on the north side of the house, depending on the preferences of the culture that you plan to plant.

Plastic and metal arcs can be useful not only for covering plants with foil or spunbond, but also for creating support.

Arcs can be made of plastic or metal, the main thing is that they are strong enough, keep their shape and are not afraid of frost.

The easiest way is to buy ready-made arcs in a garden store or on the market, since they are inexpensive, but bending them yourself so that the structure turns out to be even is not so easy.

Due to their low height, the arches may not support all plants. It is best to tie low tomatoes, young vines of grapes, flowers with thin and high stems to them.

Flower beds

If you have enough free time and willow twigs, you can braid your flower beds, turning them into giant baskets, the handles of which will act as props for climbing plants.

In such a flower bed, you can plant cucumbers, honeysuckle, honeysuckle, blackberries, clematis, hops, lemongrass, and there will be room around the edges for ordinary annuals or herbs.

Such a product will easily endure winter if, after manufacturing, the rods are varnished, however, it is advisable to protect the flower garden from moisture using a covering material.

Column supports

They look beautiful and unusual, but not every site is suitable in style. They can be hewn from stone, cast from concrete, carved from wood, but in any case they will look harmonious only in a classic English garden in front of a large stone house. If you have a standard 6 acres and a panel house, you should not experiment with columns.

Moreover, they are quite impractical, maiden grapes, bindweed, morning glory, hops are able to curl on their surface, but roses or grapes simply will not hold on to a smooth vertical.

Bush holders

Each of the summer residents made a standard bush holder at least once in his life, because it is impossible to calmly look at the branches of gooseberries, currants or heavy flowers that have fallen to the ground.

For example, a do-it-yourself support for peonies can be made of plastic pipes, wooden bars, metal.

The easiest way to make bush holders is from wood, however, under the weight of the branches and the influence of weather conditions, they can wear out and break, so they will need to be updated every 3-4 years.

To make a bush holder with your own hands, you will need a wooden bar 30 × 30, 30 × 40 or 40 × 40 mm, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws, a hacksaw, paint or wood impregnation.

  1. Tie the branches and leaves of the bush with a rope so as not to damage them when installing the bush holder.
  2. Cut the timber into equal lengths, use self-tapping screws to fasten them together in a square.
  3. Attach the legs to the corners of the square.
  4. Treat the structure with impregnation or outdoor paint.
  5. Slide the bush holder onto the bush and lightly dig in the supports.
  6. Untie the rope and spread the branches of the bush over the support.

Supports for peonies must be installed in the spring, when the bushes are still small and their leaves and stems have not spread, and support for berry bushes is made while they are still young and with flexible branches not weighed down by the harvest.

Cone-shaped supports

Don't have time, materials and desire to invent something? Then ordinary wooden stakes, fittings or plastic pipes left over from repairs will come to your aid.

Dig 7-8 pieces into the ground around the curly plantings, and tie the upper parts together so that you get a cone that collects them "in a bundle".

Remember that smooth material will be difficult for most plants to catch with tendrils, so choose wood or rough metal with rough surfaces.

Before digging in, paint the elements of the cone with water-repellent outdoor paint - this will prolong the life of the structure.

Stelae made from metal bar, wire or plastic arches are most often used for planting ampelous plants such as petunias or long-stemmed nasturtiums. Moreover, flowers can be planted both at the foot of the stele, gradually braiding it, and in special pots fixed on the top or walls of the structure.

The easiest way is to make a pyramid-shaped stele from reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm and thick wire, but the availability of free time allows gardeners to make supports in the form of towers, Ferris wheels or spirals.

Initially, the pergola had a completely practical purpose and served as a support for a vine with heavy pouring bunches.

Over time, this design, which came from the Mediterranean, became popular all over the world and is increasingly decorative in nature.

Although in the beginning pergolas were built as large sheds, now on our sites their sizes can change at the request of the owner.

In fact, this is an open veranda, attached to the house or separate, in which part of the openings are filled with a thin lattice, beams, curtains, and the role of the roof is played by weaving plants.

It is quite simple to build a pergola - you need to make a wooden frame from a powerful bar, if you wish, covering some walls with screens or partitions. Then plant grapes, maiden grapes, clematis, climbing roses and other plants that winter in your area without shelter at the supports of the pergola.

In a few years (subject to mild winters), a real Mediterranean pergola will become a decoration of your site.

Pyramid stands

By analogy with the cone stand, a pyramid is also prepared, however, 4 supporting elements are enough for it. This can be fittings, wooden blocks, pipe cuttings, etc.

Dig in their lower parts with a square on a flower bed or ridge, and connect the upper ends together by welding or winding with wire. After that, plant the climbing plants at the base and wait for them to rise.

Natural supports

A support for climbing plants can be not only an artificially created element, but also a natural one, for example, a tree, a culture with powerful tall stems or a large stone. +

In order to use this technique on your site, you need to either plant climbing plants under the trees, or combine suitable crops within the same ridge.

In nature, you can most often see how maiden grapes or bindweed twine around tree trunks and stones, and in the garden you can replace wild-growing vines with clematis. And it can also be a solution for someone who does not know how to make a support for peas with their own hands - you just need to plant it on the same bed with corn.

If you do not know how to make a support for clematis with your own hands, consider the option of a decorative lattice made of metal or wood. They are usually used as decorative elements covering the unsightly walls of houses and outbuildings on the site. However, with the help of lattices, you can create a shady corner or zone the space.

They are made simply - metal rods or thin planks are attached to the support frame, which intersect with each other and form cells. After that, the support frame is dug into the ground or, with the help of crossbars, is attached to the wall, which it should cover.

The chain-link mesh or plastic construction mesh is similar in principle to a rope support - it also needs a frame or an attachment point.

Most often, the metal mesh serves as both a part of the fence and a supporting element for a hedge. Clematis, bindweed, peas, cucumbers and other soft-stemmed plants can easily climb along thin twigs. But for grapes or climbing roses, the mesh will not be strong enough.

It is advisable to let annual plants along the grid, which can be simply cut off in the fall, since it will be very difficult to get the stems out of the cells, and it is almost impossible to lay the entire structure for the winter.

The mesh supports, dug into the ground to a depth of 70 cm, should be at least 1.5-2 m apart from each other, otherwise it will bend under the weight of the plants.

An option for the largest garden, literally a park on a private territory - berso. This ancient small architectural form came to us from France in the 17th century, where, with the help of a frame and haircuts, extended corridors were created from trees, in which both the wall and the roof were made of branches. The openwork elements of the frame itself made the bersot decorative even in the cold season.

Of course, in a summer cottage, such an element will look massive and take away all the free space, so it is better to replace it with a pergola or an arch. But in a huge garden, you can plant several willows in 2 rows and set high metal arcs around which to form a berso. True, you will need at least 7 years and experience in artistic tree cutting, but you can safely say that only you and the Upper Gardens of Peterhof have such beauty.

Trellis for blackberries, cucumbers, roses, peas and other climbing and climbing plants can be very different. Most often they are made in the form of a lattice with a solid frame, but there are also simpler solutions that even an inexperienced summer resident can do.

If you don't want to pound and paint anything, you can make a primitive trellis from 2 stakes and wire. Drive stakes, beams or pieces of pipe along the ends of the ridge, and pull several levels of wire or twine between them.

The trellis can be an excellent support for outdoor cucumbers or other vegetable crops. But in a flower garden, such a solution, although functional, is not too justified due to its low aesthetics.

And what supports for plants in the garden and vegetable garden do you make?

Click "Like" and get only the best posts on Facebook ↓


Peas are a plant with a lodging stem reaching a height of 45 cm to 250 cm. To fully develop and rise up to the light, the stems need to cling to the support. There are also standard types of culture that do not need support. But undersized plants only benefit from tying.

When the peas outgrow 20-30 cm, the stems gradually lodge on the ground. Areas of bushes adjacent to the ground begin to rot and become affected by diseases. Dampness and darkening are formed under the plants - the best conditions for snails and slugs.

Tall peas on a support

Lodged green mass covers the pods. With a lack of light, the beans ripen unevenly, do not accumulate nutrients and sugars to the proper extent. Such peas lose their taste and sweetness.

It is difficult for growers to control the ripening of the pods. Overripe beans take up most of the plant's nutrients. Bushes begin to dry even under favorable growth conditions.

It is difficult to spray fallen plants with preventive solutions, covering all parts of the bushes. Culture is more often affected by bruchus, which is capable of destroying the entire crop. Beans damaged by the pest are toxic and should not be used for food or for sowing.

The advantage of supports for small garden areas is the verticality of the beds. This saves usable floor space. With a successful selection of support, the pea bed becomes an element of the site's decor, covers unsightly buildings or fences.

Peas are tied to a trellis when the plant grows to 10-15 cm. To do this, it is enough to attach the antennae of the plant to the support, and as it grows, follow the subsequent fixation of the stems.


Bicycle rim support

Use the rim of an old bicycle wheel if it is lying around in your basement to make a trellis for peas and beans. You will need two rims for one trellis, one trellis can support 25 plants.

Here's how to do it:
1. Remove the spokes.
2. Insert a wooden cross in the center, which divides the circle into four sectors. Nail the cross through the knitting holes.
3. Find a stake that will be slightly longer than the possible height of your peas (one third of the stake must be driven into the ground to make the structure stable). Since the peas grow to a height of 1.8–2 m, you will need a 2.5 m stake. Nail the stake to the center of the cross so that it is perpendicular to the rim plane. If you use a metal post that does not rot in the ground, you will need to drill through the end to secure the cross.

Place the rim on the ground and drive a stake or post with the rim in the center of the circle on the ground. Connect the top and bottom rims with twine through the spoke holes, then secure the bottom rim to the ground with tent stakes or staples.

Now you can plant the peas.

Plant beans or peas in a circle near the rim and the plants will pull up the twine. In the center of the ring, you can plant tomatoes or some kind of grass or flowers so that the space does not go to waste.


Common mistakes

Fitting pea garters is rarely a problem for gardeners. But there are several common mistakes that can hinder the development of culture:

  1. Construction of the structure after planting the peas. Some supports, for example, stakes, can be dug into the garden with sprouted shoots. But trellises, huts and wigwams must be installed before sowing seeds, otherwise there is a risk of damaging young bushes.
  2. The use of metal rods and profiles. Iron structures get very hot in the sun and can burn pea shoots and leaves. It is possible to use metal supports for the garter, but only to strengthen the trellis or wigwam. They should not come into direct contact with the plant.
  3. Unstable installation of the structure. Trellises, huts and other supports must be properly fixed on the surface of the earth so that they do not fall even in a squally wind. It is recommended not just to put the structure on top of the garden bed, but to reliably dig it into the ground.

When making a garter for pea stalks, you cannot use rigid cords, fabrics, and even more so wire. This leads to breakage of the shoots and a slowdown in the growth of bushes.



Previous Article

Stenocereus beneckei f. inermis

Next Article

Prairie Garden Design: Tips For Creating A Prairie Style Garden