Several hundred species of clerodendrum grow in nature, although only a few of them are grown at home. Caring for Clerodendrum is not very difficult, even beginner growers can achieve abundant flowering if they adhere to simple rules.
Plants of the genus Clerodendrum are flowering shrubs. In nature, they mainly grow in the humid tropics of Asia, Africa and South America. The name of the flower comes from the Greek words kleros - fate, dendron - tree and literally translates as "tree of fate." People call clerodendrum "innocent love".
The leaves of the plant are bright green in color, the leaf blade is heart-shaped with jagged edges and a rough surface. The leaf length is 20–30 cm. Clerodendrum has flexible shoots, which quickly grow woody in their lower part. Clerodendrum is popular among flower growers for its charming butterfly-like flowers, with flowers collected in brushes or shields, depending on the type of plant.
A feature of clerodendrum is that both flowers and leaves exude a delicate, pleasant aroma. The smell of clerodendrum differs from one species to another.
Breeders have bred a variety of plant varieties, including:
|Spring-summer period||Autumn-winter period|
|Lighting||For excellent growth, the plant requires bright, but diffused lighting. The ideal option for placing a clerodendrum is the window sills of windows facing the West or East.||Diffused lighting is required, can be rearranged to a darker place.|
|Temperature||Liana prefers moderate summer temperatures ranging from +18 to 25 ° C.||The autumn-winter period should be cool, about + 15 ° C, since the plant needs rest, during which it partially, and sometimes completely, sheds its leaves.|
|Air humidity||Moisture is a very important condition for full bloom. The flower responds well to regular spraying.||When the liana has completely shed its leaves, it does not need additional air humidification.|
Clerodendrum grows very quickly, a vine can grow shoots up to two meters per year, so young plants are transplanted annually into a larger pot (about 3 cm). When the clerodendrum has reached what you think is sufficient, plant growth can be inhibited. For this, the flower is grown in a cramped pot, preventing the root system from developing. An adult liana is transplanted every two to three years in a pot of the same size.
Step-by-step description of planting clerodendrum:
The soil for the vine should be loose and nutritious.
Drainage should be good, as clerodendrum does not like stagnant water
After planting, the plant quickly takes root and begins to actively vegetate.
During the period of active growth and flowering in spring and summer, water the clerodendrum abundantly, with soft, settled water. Instead of standing water at room temperature, you can take warm water from the tap and pass it through a filter. Clerodendrum responds very well to watering with melt water. Although finding snow in spring and summer is problematic, experienced flower growers have figured out how to get melted water. To do this, you need to draw water from the tap and put it in the freezer. After a while, take out the ice and thaw it.
There are no definite rules for what should be the interval between waterings. The need will tell you the state of the substrate, its top layer should dry out. After flowering, limit watering, and in winter, during the "sleep" period, water very carefully and rarely. In this case, it is better to underfill than overflow.
It is very useful to combine watering with top dressing. The required amount of mineral and organic substances contributes to the active growth of the plant and lush flowering. It is necessary to carry out top dressing from the beginning of April to the end of August. Use complex preparations with a high phosphorus content for flowering plants as fertilizers. These fertilizers are produced in a convenient liquid form and are sold in specialized stores. A good effect is given by drugs Zelenit, Agricola, etc. The plant receives enough organic matter from the soil, provided that the soil is completely renewed with an annual transplant.
Feed once every two weeks. Dilute the solution according to the instructions, a lower concentration of fertilizer is acceptable. Be careful as too much concentration can burn the clerodendrum roots.
Clerodendrum can be grown as a small bush, in ampelous or standard form. To get the desired look, you need to form it correctly:
For lush flowering, several conditions must be provided. First, the plant needs a dormant period. It starts in September and lasts until February. During this period, the clerodendrum must be rearranged from the window to a cooler place. Watering should be very sparse and sparse.
Secondly, in the spring, when green leaves appear, you need to increase the amount of watering, cut off the branches and put the plant on a light window, where it is usually grown.
The flowering time of clerodendrum is from early spring to September. If the plant rested during the "sleep" period and gained strength, then the buds begin to appear in March, they cover the bare stem and bloom for quite a long time, retaining decorativeness even when the flowers wither.
If your clerodendrum does not want to bloom, then you did not provide it with the necessary conditions during the dormant period. In the spring, you can put it in a dark, cool place for two to three weeks, then cut off the shoots and transplant it into fresh nutrient soil. Such treatments can make the clerodendrum bloom.
Clerodendrum Thompson bloom lasts 3-5 months
In the fall, the vine begins to shed its leaves, and the shoots seem to dry up, which often frightens inexperienced gardeners. The plant thus prepares for the winter dormant period. At this time, it is very important to create suitable conditions for the clerodendrum for winter sleep.
Tie up the shoots so they don't break (they become brittle in winter). Move the flower to a cool place where the temperature does not rise above 10-15 degrees. Stop fertilizing the flower and cut back on watering. Moisten the soil only if the clod is completely dry.
Cuttings are the main breeding method of Clerodendrum. It is best to prepare cuttings (apical or stem) in early spring, then they will take root easier and faster. However, be prepared for the fact that the grafting process is quite lengthy and can take several months, and besides, not all seedlings take root in the end. One nuance is very important: depending on the type of flower, the reproduction process takes place in different ways. Regardless of the type of plant, rooting must be carried out in water or in moist soil at a temperature of at least 22 degrees. If rooting occurs in the soil, then the substrate is prepared from equal parts of sod land, sand and humus. Cover the container with cuttings with a foil. Young plants are planted in 3-4 pieces in pots with a diameter of 7-11 cm. It is important to remember that cuttings must be watered abundantly during growth and during rooting.
Seed propagation is a more time consuming method. The material should be sown in early spring - in March, preferably in the middle of the month. Land for planting is mixed with peat and water. Seeds are quite demanding on lighting, air temperature and regular watering. Seedlings will appear in a few months, after which they must be dived and transplanted into larger containers.
|Sign||Cause||How to fix|
|The plant sheds leaves||Shedding leaves in the fall is a natural phenomenon for clerodendrum, as it prepares for a dormant period.||It is necessary to provide the necessary conditions for the wintering of the plant.|
|Lack of watering or low humidity||Spray plants with water from a spray bottle. Move it away from radiators. Increase the amount of watering, but do not overmoisten the soil.|
|Lack of nutrients||Replace the potting soil. Feed regularly with complex mineral fertilizers. If you fertilize a plant but it still sheds leaves, increase the fertilizer dosage by about 10%.|
|Flowering does not come||Incorrect conditions of detention during the rest period||After flowering, move the plant to a place with a temperature of no more than 15 ºC, reduce watering, and stop fertilizing and spraying.|
|The root system of the clerodendrum has grown, the flower is cramped in the pot||Transplant the vine into a larger container (the size of the pot should be 3 cm larger).|
|The substrate in which the plant is planted is depleted||Feed with complex preparations for flowering plants. Transplanting creepers into fresh soil will also help stimulate flowering.|
|The plant began to grow foliage to the detriment of flowering||The soil contains more nitrogen than phosphorus. Stop feeding for 2 months and then fertilize the plant using phosphate fertilizers.|
|The plant is planted in an oversized pot||Do not transplant the plant into a smaller container by volume. In the next season, the plant will grow root mass and vegetate well.|
|Leaves turn lighter or yellow||Lack of lighting||Move the pot to a place with diffused sunlight. You can place it on the south window, but shade from direct sunlight.|
|Excess light||Move the clerodendrum pot away from the window or shade with tulle.|
|The water you pour on the clerodendrum is hard||Use settled or melt water for irrigation and spraying.|
|Name of the disease or pest||How does it manifest||How to treat||Prevention measures|
|Spider mite||When a spider mite is affected, a barely noticeable cobweb appears on the leaves, the underside of the leaf blade is covered with white dots.||Spray once every 3 days with Actellik's solution, 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water. Repeat the treatment 3-4 times.||Maintain the correct humidity level. Spray clerodendrum regularly and generously with soft water. It is helpful to shower with soapy water once a month.|
|Whitefly||The leaf is covered with a shiny coating; an insect can be seen on the underside of the leaf blade.|
|Shield||The leaves of the clerodendrum begin to wither very quickly. Brown scale pustules are visible on the stems.|
|Powdery mildew||White bloom on leaf blades.||Remove damaged leaves. Treat the flower three times with an interval of 10 days with a fungicide for indoor plants.||Water the plant with warm, settled water, as the reason is watering the plant with cold water and keeping it in a cool place.|
|Mealybug||Clerodendrum stops growing and begins shedding leaves. On the leaf blades and shoots at the roots, off-white balls, similar to cotton wool.||Maintain the required air humidity and spray the plant systematically.|
Clerodendrum is a spectacular and unpretentious liana that can add uniqueness to the interior of your home. Create good conditions for her, and she will delight you with her flowering.
The name of the plant - clerodendrum - translated from Greek means "tree of fate" and hints at the direct connection of the flower with domestic happiness.
And this is not without reason: a pleasant, delicate smell and a beautiful view of tropical butterflies guarantee a good mood for domestic inhabitants.
Growing in the tropical regions of southeast Asia, aglaonems are evergreens that are both very unpretentious and attractive at the same time. The species discovered and described at the end of the 19th century were exported to Europe, where aglaonema plants began to be successfully grown in greenhouse conditions.
By this time, many different exotic plants were domesticated by the Europeans, which amazed the imagination with their bright flowering or unusual appearance. The richness of tropical flora has invariably aroused the interest of botanists and florists, but what attracted them to Aglaonema?
If you read the dry description of the culture in the reference book, it may seem that the plant is unremarkable. Aglaonema has erect stems or stems that lie down as they grow. When the aglaonema plant is young, the stem is almost invisible, then it lengthens, and the leaves on small petioles remain only at its top. Leaf plates, depending on the type and variety, can be variegated, edged or evenly colored. Oval, cordate or pointed leaves are rather dense, with a glossy upper side and a depressed central vein.
If the catchy inflorescence of anthurium became the reason for the appearance of this plant in the collections of indoor crop lovers, then the flowering of aglaonema is sometimes even difficult to notice. At the top or in the axils, peduncles also develop, crowned with medium-sized inflorescences with a white or cream cob and a light or greenish veil.
After flowering aglaonema, small juicy orange or scarlet berries are formed in place of the cob, containing cream or brownish, oval seeds.
In nature, the reproduction of aglaonema takes place through root shoots or seeds, and at home, vegetative methods for obtaining new specimens are more often used.
Even at home, aglaonema blooms often and willingly, which distinguishes this culture from a closely related species - Dieffenbachia. It is this plant that resembles aglaonema most of all. But this impression is deceptive and develops only with a superficial acquaintance with the culture.
The main advantage of culture is bright, combining all shades from deep green to carmine foliage. It makes the aglaonema plant a bright decoration of any windowsill all year round, and maintaining its external attractiveness does not require special knowledge and efforts.
Aglaonema, as a resident of the tropics, prefers to stay in a warm room. If in summer the air temperature can vary from 21 to 26 ° C, then in winter, when growth is slightly inhibited, the plant is kept at 18–20 ° C.
It is important that the air does not cool below 12-15 ° C at any time of the year, since such temperatures can negatively affect the condition of the plant.
Aglaonema's love for warmth also worries breeders. Therefore, when obtaining modern varieties and hybrids, special attention is paid to the ability of the plant to tolerate low temperatures. An example of such a variety is the Silver Queen - Aglaonema plants with silvery green foliage, which have earned the Royal Horticultural Society award for decorativeness and endurance.
Both in winter and in summer, aglaonema needs a long day of light, at least 11-15 hours. Forcing a green pet to grow with a lack of light can cause it to be overstretched, while:
Although aglaonema is shade-tolerant, variegated plants need diffused light to maintain the brightness and color quality of their leaves. In summer, at noon, pots with aglaonema are shaded to protect from direct rays, and in winter, if necessary, they provide artificial lighting.
Watering of plants is changed depending on the season, air temperature and plant condition. In warm seasons, the soil should be moistened more abundantly than in winter or late autumn. If the room is cool, then the amount of water is also reduced. At the same time, one should not be guided by the widespread, but erroneous opinion about the unconditional love for moisture of all people from the tropics. Aglaonema will tolerate dry soil more easily than constant waterlogging.
For irrigation, it is necessary to take only settled warm water. And the substrate in a pot with aglaonema must be allowed to dry out to a depth of 2–4 cm between waterings. Aglaonema is good at irrigation with water and washing the foliage with warm water. This procedure helps:
Do not forget that aglaonema requires regular feeding during the growing season. They are carried out from early spring to October, using compositions for decorative deciduous crops.
The peculiarity of the aglaonema plant is that young specimens grow rather quickly, and then growth slows down. Therefore, at first, the florist will have to transplant aglaonema annually. And an adult specimen is usually transferred into a larger pot no more often than after two or three years.
The procedure is best done in early spring, carefully transferring the plant along with the soil to a new pot. In parallel with the transplantation of an adult plant, the division of the bush is often carried out - one of the most popular and simple ways of reproduction of aglaonema.
Of all the aroids, Aglaonema is probably one of the most unpretentious crops. In this case, there are no special requirements for the soil for transplanting the aglaonema. The main thing is that the substrate for filling the pot is light, structured, it easily allows air and moisture to pass through, but does not retain excessive amounts of water.
If the density of the substrate is high, this will negatively affect the development of the root system, weaken it and, possibly, provoke the development of fungal or bacterial root rot.
As a soil for transplanting aglaonema, take a mixture:
When you cannot mix the components yourself, you can use ready-made substrates for orchids and ornamental crops. They are mixed in equal proportions, adding a little crushed charcoal.
A pot for aglaonema, plants with a superficial root system, it is more correct to choose not too voluminous. The larger the container for the plant, the longer the roots will braid the lump of the substrate, which will delay the development and flowering of the aglaonema.
When choosing a pot for aglaonema, they must take into account the need to create a powerful drainage layer, but a deep container is still not needed.
At home, you can get young plants of aglaonema by dividing an adult specimen using cuttings obtained from the stem, as well as seeds. Vegetative methods, as a rule, are less laborious and allow you to quickly acquire a viable independent plant.
In addition to the fact that as a result of such reproduction of aglaonema, the daughter specimens fully inherit the parental traits, they are already adapted to the created conditions and more easily tolerate acclimatization.
When growing aglaonema from seeds, there is a risk of seeing seedlings with foliage radically different from the parent on your own windowsill.
During growth, some plant species lose their compactness in 3–4 years, become excessively elongated and require renewal. In this case, it is convenient to use the stem for grafting.
Cuttings are cut from a healthy plant so that there are a couple of nodes on the stem segment. The apical stalk is also used for the propagation of aglaonema. All planting material on the sections is treated with crushed charcoal, then dried during the day and rooted in water or a substrate consisting of a mixture of equal shares of perlite and peat.
For the rapid formation of the root system and in order to avoid decay of the planting material, the cuttings should be kept at a temperature of 22 to 26 ° C and constant humidity.
If all conditions for the reproduction of aglaonema are met, roots sufficient for planting are formed in 20-30 days. Aglaonema can be transplanted into ordinary soil for adult plants, not forgetting about drainage and careful attitude to still weak roots.
When transplanting an aglaonema, if the plant has grown strongly and has given lateral processes, it can be divided into several independent divisions. In order not to harm the root system, the procedure is carried out after watering the soil well beforehand. After removing the pot, the aglaonema is cleaned of substrate residues, the roots are taken apart and the daughter layers are separated with a sharp knife.
It is important that all new plants have their own roots and growth point. It is imperative to sprinkle the cut points with charcoal or activated carbon powder.
Aglaonema is planted in the same soil as when transplanting. Before planting, the soil is moistened, and for the period of acclimatization, the plants are allowed to stay in humid warm air. Rooting ends when new bright leaves appear on the bush.
Aglaonema seeds, which ripen even on domestic plants, can also produce seedlings and young specimens. True, this method will require enviable patience and hard work from the grower.
Since all aroid seeds lose their germination quickly, it is best to use fresh seed from ripe red berries. The washed seeds are embedded in moist sphagnum to a depth of 1–1.5 cm, where they should be kept at a temperature of 20–26 ° C. A decrease in temperature with this method of reproduction of aglaonema directly affects the quality and speed of germination. We must not forget about maintaining high humidity in a homemade greenhouse.
If the seeds of the aglaonema are fresh, the sprouts can be expected in 20–25 days, otherwise the process takes up to 3 months. After the formation of a rosette with a diameter of 5–7 cm, the aglaonema dive several times, transferring from a smaller pot to a larger one, and using a substrate of peat, universal soil and perlite. Small pieces of steamed bark and charcoal can be added to the soil for transplanting aglaonema.
Proper care of Vrieseia is a guarantee of plant health and a guarantee of flowering.
Vriezia is quite hygrophilous, it requires regular, but moderate watering, regardless of the season. The flower should be watered with settled (so that the chlorine disappears and the salts settle) water at room temperature. You can use thawed or rainwater.
Watering Vriezia has its own characteristics. Unlike other plants, you need to pour water not into the soil, but into the middle of the leaf funnel, since the plant receives moisture and nutrients from the vegetative mass, and the roots do not have such a function. During the appearance of the peduncle, do not pour water into the outlet, during this period it is enough to moisten the substrate and spray the air.
In winter, at temperatures below 20 ° C, do not leave water in the outlet. Blot it with a napkin after each watering.
Water vriezia by pouring water directly into the center of the outlet
Some species of Vriese are grown as epiphytes, planting a flower on a snag or a piece of bark. In this case, spray the plant daily, and water it once every ten days. To do this, unhook the plant and put it in water for two hours. Then let the moisture drain and place the vriese back on the carrier.
Fertilization for Vriezia is carried out from March to September. For this, there are special preparations for bromeliads on sale, fertilizers for orchids are also suitable. The concentration of the solution should be the same as indicated in the instructions. Make a nutrient liquid and pour a small amount directly into a leaf funnel.
Foliar dressings are also effective, in which the solution is sprayed onto the leaf blades. There is no need to fertilize the substrate, since weak roots will still not be able to deliver nutrients to Vriese. The optimal feeding regime in the spring-summer period is twice a month, with the onset of October they must be completely stopped.
Fertilizers for orchids are suitable for feeding Vriezia
Vriezia blooms for the first time in the third or fourth year of life. Flowering lasts two weeks, but the bracts retain their beauty for four to five months. After that, the socket dies off completely. When the bract is soft and its scales are brown, cut off the peduncle. The rosette will begin to die off, but babies (lateral processes) will appear around it, the flowering of which, in turn, will come in three to four years. The process of dying off of the mother plant is quite long and takes about one year.
Flowering lasts two weeks, but the bracts retain their beauty for four to five months.
If the vriezia refuses to bloom, then the appearance of the peduncle can be stimulated. To do this, place the plant in a plastic bag and place a ripe banana inside. The ripening fruit, releasing ethylene, will significantly speed up the flowering process. Change bananas periodically, otherwise the rotting fruit will attract gnats.
Vriezia, like many other representatives of the bromeliad family, is an epiphyte, that is, in nature it grows on a carrier (tree, stump or snag). Using this characteristic feature of the plant, you can create a spectacular interior decoration called "bromeliad tree".
To create it, select a blank made of wood of an unusual shape. A driftwood that has been in the water for a while is best suited. If you do not have such material, you can put the piece of wood in warm water. The wood is saturated with moisture, it can be easily cleaned of dirt, and it will also acquire a beautiful color.
After soaking, shape the driftwood to the desired shape and secure it to a stable stand. It can be placed in a large ceramic flowerpot and filled with stones, plaster or cement.
Growing epiphytes on driftwood is an effective way of landscaping an interior
Punch holes in the wood for planting. Fill them with soil, plant Vriezia. Also on the "bromeliad tree" you can plant tilandsia, ehmeya, gusmania and other plants. It is important that the rosettes are not large, but the root system must be well formed.
Place sphagnum moss around the plants and wire it to the driftwood. Subsequently, periodically moisturize the moss. Pour warm water into the center of the outlets.
|Problem||Cause||How to fix|
|Light brown spots appear on the leaf blades.||Vriezia suffered a sunburn.||Shade out of the direct sun with a curtain or piece of paper. Also, the plant can be transferred to a western or eastern window.|
|The tips of the leaf blades dry up.||Insufficient watering.||Water the vriezia regularly, make sure that there is always water in the leaf funnel.|
|Vriezia does not bloom.||The flower does not have enough light, warmth and moisture.||Place the vriezia in a warm and bright place, observe the watering regime.|
|The leaf blades rot.||Water stagnates in the funnel or sump.||Blot off excess moisture with a tissue. Adjust the watering mode. Change the water in the outlet every three days. Drain excess moisture from the pallet immediately after watering.|
|Disease / pest||Signs||Control and prevention measures|
|Shield aphid (scale insect)||Brownish tubercles appear on the leaf blades. Leaves become lethargic.||Wipe the leaves thoroughly with a cloth dampened with soapy water. Repeat the procedure two to three times with an interval of three days. With a large number of scale insects, treatment with insecticidal preparations, for example, Aktara or Aktellik, will help.|
|Root worm||Egg-laying is visible at the root collar, the pest infects the roots, as a result of which the leaves rot.||Avoid excessive moisture. If a pest appears, immediately treat with Karbofos.|
|Mealybug||White lumps appear in the leaf axils. The leaf blades are deformed.||Treat the plant with a solution of the drug Aktara or Fitoverm. Repeat the procedure a week later.|
|Red spider mite||The leaf blades are covered with a thin cobweb, on which whitish dots can be seen.||Give the plant a warm shower, thoroughly washing away the pests. Treat with Decis or Actellic.|
|Spotting||The leaf blades are covered with small transparent blisters, and then grayish stripes.||Adjust the watering mode. Spray the leaves on both sides and the soil with a fungicide.|
A plant kept in unsuitable conditions for it is most susceptible to diseases and pests. The main ones, as well as methods of treating the affected alocasia, will be considered in the table.
HOW CLIVIA LOOKS. Clivia is a rare species of evergreen long-lived plants. Although this flower belongs to the amaryllis family, it has a bulb, not roots. Clivia leaves gather in a false, thick stem. The powerful roots of the houseplant store many nutrients for future use.
Clivia leaves are linear or xiphoid. They are usually deep green in color and have a characteristic sheen. The leaves can reach a length of 70 cm and a width of 8 cm. They grow slowly, up to 10 new leaves per season.
In February, flower stalks up to half a meter in length grow at room clivia. On each of them, an inflorescence is formed, consisting of about two dozen funnel-shaped buds with a diameter of about 8 cm.The plant blooms slowly, but blooms for a rather long period. It can have several peduncles. Inflorescences can be yellow, orange, red, apricot or white. The center of the flower is usually yellow. Blooming clivia exudes a light, pleasant scent. Ripe fruits are bright orange in color. Clivia has yellow and light brown roots.
The flower is rather unpretentious to humidity and light in the room. With proper care, a houseplant pleases with flowering a couple of times a year and can live up to 40 years.
Despite its beauty, plant care is not difficult. The conditions of an ordinary apartment are well suited for her. However, the clivia does not need to be disturbed often: rearrange, loosen, trim and often replant.
The indoor plant is quite shade-tolerant. But she also likes a bright place if she is not under direct sun. Clivia can grow without sunlight if fluorescent or phytolamps are on.
IMPORTANT. Do not move the green pet pot or change its position during budding. Clivia won't do any good.
The decorative flower is suitable for standard room temperature. From October, the plant enters dormancy and it is better to lower the air temperature to + 10-15 degrees Celsius. When the flower arrow appears, the temperature is slowly raised to a comfortable room temperature. After flowering stops, the plant needs to be dormant for about three months at a temperature of about 10 degrees. The older the flower, the longer it needs to be alone. Without a cool "sleep" flowering clivia will not please with splendor: flower stalks will grow short, and flowers small.
REFERENCE. Clivia grows in western South Africa, where the climate is dry and hot. In this regard, the flower does not need much moisture. Leaves should be wiped with a damp cloth and sprayed.
From spring to autumn, the clivia needs to be watered a lot. But it is necessary to observe that water does not collect in the pan. At rest, the flower is almost never watered. And when budding, they often begin to water with warm water. It is desirable that the soil above is always wet.
It is recommended to fertilize the plant during flowering and active growth approximately every 3 days.
ATTENTION. Do not overfeed the green pet with nitrogen fertilizer. Due to an overabundance of this element, clivia may refuse to bloom a second time. But the leaves will grow remarkably.
While the clivia is young, it blooms only once a year. As the plant grows older, it can bloom a couple of times a year if well cared for. In February or March, she grows a peduncle about 15 centimeters long. After that, the clivia is moved to a warmer, brighter place and watered vigorously. Once the conditions are right for the flower, it cannot be moved or rotated. This can cause the leaves to drop and the clivia to stop flowering.
It is necessary to feed and water the flower in time, even when the flowering stops. Thanks to this, in August, the clivia will be able to bloom again. If the peduncle has not grown, then the clivia can be placed in a dark, cold place, artificially creating a state of rest. At this time, it is not fertilized and almost never watered. After a few weeks of this regime, the flower arrow will appear again in the clivia.
Indoor clivia is so undemanding that it pleases with buds every year, even in the absence of a state of rest and good care.
With artificial pollination, the flower ripens fruits with seeds, which at first have a green color, and after ripening are reddish-orange. They make the clivia look attractive but drain it. Because of this, it is advisable to fertilize the plant during fruiting.
A soil of sand, leaves and turf in a ratio of 1: 2: 2 is perfect for clivia. They also add humus and peat there.
This plant does not like strong interference. Often it is undesirable to transplant it - the roots of the clivia can break and rot.
The signal for transplanting clivia is that the roots begin to creep out of the pot. Young seedlings grow quickly, so they are replanted once a year. It is recommended to transplant a large plant after flowering no more than once every 3 years.
For growing clivia, it is better to use a little tight pots, but with large drainage holes. Clivia blooms better in them. Before transplanting clivia, a drainage layer of crushed stone, expanded clay, broken brick and clay shards is laid on the bottom.
The flower is easily propagated by the vegetative method - by small children of clivia, which are formed on the adventitious roots. It is possible to breed Klivia by sowing seeds. But this method at home is problematic and greatly weakens the plant. The vegetative route is more common due to its ease of execution. A young individual shoot should have its own roots and several pairs of leaves. Division occurs after the end of flowering, so as not to harm the adult plant. The sprouts are planted in different pots and placed in a cool room at a temperature of 17 degrees. They are not watered very abundantly. A young plant should bloom in a couple of years.
When clivia is propagated by seeds, the first flowering will occur only after 5 years.
More often it is the Clivia miniate species that is grown at home. In another way, it is called cinnabar clivia, red lead, red lead or miniata. This is the most popular species in the culture. The miniata grows up to 60 cm. It has belt-like leaves of a rich green hue, reaching 50 cm. When the plant begins to bloom, it develops several peduncles, on which about 40 buds grow. The flowers are funnel-shaped with oblong, wide petals. The buds are red-orange with a yellow center. Clivia Cinnabar is from South Africa. In the wild, it grows in the shade at elevations up to 800 meters above sea level. Many plant species originated from cinnabar clivia.
Beautiful clivia (Clivia nobilis) grows small, up to 30 cm high. The leaves have a slug-like shape and up to 40 cm long. Peduncles are usually strong and grow vertically up to half a meter. At their top, many flowers bloom, the number of which reaches 60 pieces. The buds are tubular in shape with fused petals of pink, yellow and orange, and their tips have a green tint. Clivia the lovely is not growing very quickly.
Clivia lemon or citrine (Clivia miniate Citrina) has buds of light yellow, white-cream or snow-white shades.
At times, the plant is "sick", which is reflected in the yellowing of the leaves. The reason for this may be the replacement of old leaves with new ones, lack or excess of moisture, lack of feeding, transplantation and movement of clivia.
Reddish or whitish spots on the leaves of clivia can appear from the scorching sun. If the leaves turn pale green, the plant lacks fertilizer. Brown ends of the leaves indicate too much watering of the clivia, and their rotting indicates damage to the roots. The reason that the flower stalk grows short is very cold or humid air. If he stopped in development, then the prolonged period of rest is to blame for this. It is necessary to water the plant with warm water no more than 40 degrees. A lack of rest can stop the flowering of clivia. It can also happen if the pot with a houseplant is in a dark or too warm place.
Clivia is modest in her care, it is advisable not to disturb her once again. Providing the plant with the correct dormancy period, this beauty will delight you with bright buds every year during the cold season.